Broken electric shower

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Hi,

My electric shower, a Triton T80, just stopped working the other day. The on-light doesn't illuminate anymore. I checked the trip switch and it's fine, the water flow comes off the same pipe as the taps, I pretty sure and they're working fine.

Do these things just burn out sometimes? Or could there be something that just needs resetting?

I see two scenarios:
1) It just needs an adjustment to make it work again.
2) It needs to be replaced altogether.

What should I expect to pay for both scenarios?

Any other tips?

Thanks :)
 
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is their power to the pullcord ?
if so is their power to the shower unit ?
 
For what they cost, I would bin it and get a new one. Normally you would run a dedicated mains water supply to an electric shower, but I wouldn't imagine that is the prob with yours. If you have an isolating valve on the pipe run to your shower, you could do a quick, and careful, check to see if it isn't blocked.
 
For what they cost, I would bin it and get a new one. Normally you would run a dedicated mains water supply to an electric shower, but I wouldn't imagine that is the prob with yours. If you have an isolating valve on the pipe run to your shower, you could do a quick, and careful, check to see if it isn't blocked.

a blocked pipe won't stop the power light from working on the t80
 
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I am on my 3rd T80si shower (3rd one being a Zante, a T80 in all but name at nearly 50% the cost.

I would bin Triton, as I have done for my new bathroom, and move to MIRA showers.
 
Read the post properly...... once again Seco, oops :oops:

But, still think it should be binned, as I also had 2 on the trot that have failed prematurely, i.e. after 6 months. Also, at the college where I work, we have stopped fitting tritons as they don't seem to deal with hard water as effectively as other brands :(
 
Thanks for all the speedy replies!

The unit has been in place for a few years now, so it's not like it hasn't done it's time, I was just trying to see if I could save a few pennies.

If I got a replacement unit, would it be fairly straightforward to replace? Or does it need a pro?

I'm thinking all I'd have to do would be to turn off the power at the fusebox, turn off the water, remove and replace the unit and hey presto...?
 
Reconnecting the shower electrically comes under Part P, so it may be wise to get someone in ;)
 
if you wish to change your shower check before buying as most tritons have the water supply and electrics on the right as miras are on the left.
 
Read the post properly...... once again Seco, oops :oops:

But, still think it should be binned, as I also had 2 on the trot that have failed prematurely, i.e. after 6 months. Also, at the college where I work, we have stopped fitting tritons as they don't seem to deal with hard water as effectively as other brands :(

trouble with electric showers they where a economical shower at one time now it costs the earth to buy and have one installed.
 
Forgive my ignorance, but I'm assuming 'Part P' is some kind of regulations that you need to be qualified in before doing certain electrical jobs?

What kind of price should I pay for a replacement and fitting then, if I need to get a plumber in and can't do this myself?
 
Forgive my ignorance, but I'm assuming 'Part P' is some kind of regulations that you need to be qualified in before doing certain electrical jobs?
No, you have the wrong idea about it.

Fundamentally, Part P promotes safe installations by requiring (a) competence (not qualifications) for all work, and (b) notification for some work to the local authority. If you are qualified then you still have to notify, but you can do so after doing the work.

More information is available here: //www.diynot.com/wiki/electrics:part_p

What kind of price should I pay for a replacement and fitting then, if I need to get a plumber in and can't do this myself?
The electrics are very straightforward. The plumbing also, as long you get a shower with an inlet in the same position. If you call Triton then they'll tell you which models . Ask them to include in their answer the models that are sold in Homebase and Wickes.

Some models will need you to turn the brass elbow by 90° - not difficult, but you need to ensure that it doesn't leak.

Some other models will need you to relocate the water supply by a few inches. More difficult in a tiled shower area, hence the suggestion to contact Triton.
 
Hey Softus, thanks for the info. Having read the document in that link, my interpretation would be that this work does require notification of the LABC because it will take place in a 'special location'. Would you agree?

Having said that, if I can get hold of a unit that has the inlet in the same position then it really doesn't sound too difficult a job. I'm quite handy generally, so I don't think it should be that challenging...
 

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