I’m not sure. I first thought it was from the header tank above but I’m not sure it is. The hot water is entering via the pipe from the bottom right of the the cylinder but don’t understand why?
Brown warm water in cold taps. HELP!
- Thread starter dannyboy1981
- Start date
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I don’t know, it doesn’t make sense, it’s labelled what looks like a draincock, with an isolation valve fitted and filling the tank with hot water?
Could it be a case of reconnecting the pipework incorrectly or the cylinder has failed?I don’t know, it doesn’t make sense, it’s labelled what looks like a draincock, with an isolation valve fitted and filling the tank with hot water?
I’m just at a loss!!
Ps. I’m right in saying that the general gist is that the pump installation is rough and untidy isn’t it?!?
Cylinder could have failed, I’m also concerned with that sentinel x100 bottle near the tank above the cylinder. Is the tank above the cylinder the cold feed for the cylinder, and has x100 been added at that point?
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Don’t worry about the sentinel, that’s just left on the shelf that’s all!
It seems to point to the cylinder failing I guess but I’m concerned what has caused it really as don’t want it to happen again??
IF the cylinder has failed it’s usually down to scale, corrosion or age imo. I have just been reviewing the post, and have these few pointers:
- I would seek the original plumber (if it was a plumber used) to check everything or obtain your own engineer and seek to recover any fault costs from your original installer, but give original the opportunity to put anything right.
- The heating could be overheating causing the overflow to run, but not the brown water in the taps.
- The warming of cold pipes could be from the mixing water (if this is happening) or undue warming from placing a cold pipe above a heat source
- Also noticed it’s an oil boiler system, and there are several oil boiler engineers on here that may have a different insight (not sure if it differs from gas boilers)
many thanks for the advice. the original plumbers have been back several times now and seem to be making things worse around the house! for example they came over the weekend to reconnect the new wc after they damaged the new flooring, they did it (or at least i was told they had) and so the water was turned on to the wc this morning and the cistern spewed out water as they hadnt connected it properly! you can see what im up against and these are fully qualified plumbers!!
luckily they have yet to be paid and so i will get somebody else out, get them to replace the cylinder and to check there dodgy work. at least the excuse of an install of the pump will have to come out again anyway to get the cylinder out!!
I noah what you mean
So to update : I’ve today had the cylinder replaced and yes it was damaged so we have clean hot water in the hot taps and clean cold water in the cold!
However we still have the ongoing issues with the heating to the extension. From having further checks I think the pipework is undersized and would appreciate any feedback from you guys.
I have 22 copper existing upstairs and from that they have connected the new pipework in plastic. They have come off the 22 in 15mm with a branch to downstairs feeding an existing TR. it then has another tee to a single rad immediately adjacent to the main (rad red hot) it then goes into the extension in 10mm plastic feeding a bathroom TR, two bedroom with a rad in already and right in the end is a feed to a rad in below dining room. The bedrooms rads and dining room only get warm, not hot and that’s after a good 1.5 hours.
Help!?!
Aside from the heating the new pump for the bathroom hot and cold water is incredibly noisy (newlec) and will kick in when I open the basin cold tap fine however I flush the toilet and nothing although turn the tap on again and the toilet will fill when the pump is kicked in by the tap! And then there’s the shower - again pump doesn’t kick in and a tiny dribble of water passes through.
My suggestion (and another plumber who has fitted the cylinder) that the pipe work is undersized was immediately rubbished by the original plumber as he said times Have changed. please help as I’m stuck.
However we still have the ongoing issues with the heating to the extension. From having further checks I think the pipework is undersized and would appreciate any feedback from you guys.
I have 22 copper existing upstairs and from that they have connected the new pipework in plastic. They have come off the 22 in 15mm with a branch to downstairs feeding an existing TR. it then has another tee to a single rad immediately adjacent to the main (rad red hot) it then goes into the extension in 10mm plastic feeding a bathroom TR, two bedroom with a rad in already and right in the end is a feed to a rad in below dining room. The bedrooms rads and dining room only get warm, not hot and that’s after a good 1.5 hours.
Help!?!
Aside from the heating the new pump for the bathroom hot and cold water is incredibly noisy (newlec) and will kick in when I open the basin cold tap fine however I flush the toilet and nothing although turn the tap on again and the toilet will fill when the pump is kicked in by the tap! And then there’s the shower - again pump doesn’t kick in and a tiny dribble of water passes through.
My suggestion (and another plumber who has fitted the cylinder) that the pipe work is undersized was immediately rubbished by the original plumber as he said times Have changed. please help as I’m stuck.
Try balancing the system out first. There’s a wiki on here: https://www.diynot.com/wiki/Plumbing:faq2
Hard to tell from your description but it sounds as if you have 5 rads running from 1 bit of plastic 15mm. Which is pushing their luck bigstyle. First one- try turning all the rads on the new leg off except the furthest one (or balance it as per above). Get a thermometer (non-contact IR job) so you have some numbers to back up your claims. Worth totalling the heat output of the rads on that 15mm leg -15mm copper can handle between 6 and 9kw (at acceptable flow rate), not sure about numbers for plastic.
Shower pumps can be noisy but if the shower isn't triggering it then they've done something wrong. TBH if the sink tap is triggering it then they've also done something wrong. And there's different types of noise (depends on what sort of pump you've got), if the pump is rattling the pipework then some rubber bushed brackets can work wonders (I suspect modern pump manufacturers assume plastic pipework which doesn't resonate like copper does)
All sounds like a bit of a lashup- don't pay them any more until they've got the system working satisfactorily.
Shower pumps can be noisy but if the shower isn't triggering it then they've done something wrong. TBH if the sink tap is triggering it then they've also done something wrong. And there's different types of noise (depends on what sort of pump you've got), if the pump is rattling the pipework then some rubber bushed brackets can work wonders (I suspect modern pump manufacturers assume plastic pipework which doesn't resonate like copper does)
All sounds like a bit of a lashup- don't pay them any more until they've got the system working satisfactorily.
thanks for the reply. That attached will hopefully show this mess a bit clearer for all. The ones that aren’t working as they should are mainly the last two rad on the first floor and the end one that drops to the ground floor (that one isn’t as bad)
Attachments
Looking at that, you have x5 rads in 10mm plastic? I’m surprised any get warm if that’s the case. As per @oldbutnotdead, that’s more than pushing luck. Should be 22mm flow and return, with branches off them imo.
I’m surprised any get warm if that’s the case. As per @oldbutnotdead, that’s more than pushing luck. Should be 22mm flow and return, with branches off them imo.Looking at that, you have x5 rads in 10mm plastic?
Exactly yet that swear blind im being ridiculous
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