browning advice

[wese]

need your opions on how to best tackle this job in hand please guys

firstly the walls are finished in browning,on removing the wallpaper,there is no plaster,just rough browning finish,i was going to totally wet the walls,then pva 50/50 on top,let dry then 3/1 pva prior to using multi finish,

also the bottom metre has been hacked of due to the floods,so needs bringing to level with top section of wall,so was gonna brown to bring to level,is it ok to let the browning totally dry,prior to skiming,i would of course pva it the same as im going to do the top section of wall,

cheers

 

[joe-90]

If you think 'skimming' is the same as wiping mud on a wall you're in for a heck of a shock.

 

[wese]

thanks for that advice,joe-90,really helps ,i can skim pefectly well you will be shocked to hear as well,im having a debate with a other plaster,who has his way,hence why im asking other spreds how they would do it,as many people have different ways of attacking jobs,and all say there way is right lol

so how would you do it joe,care to share bud,or should i throw mud on and hope for the best lol

cheers

 

[joe-90]

I agree with what you've said, just thought you were one of those people that think skimming is painting in mud.

 

[JerryM]

just rough browning finish

The browning should have scratch marks in it to form a key to the finish plaster (circles or wavey lines made with a large spikey comb just as the browning starts to set). I do not use anything on browning before applying the finish coat. I leave it to completely dry. If your's does not have scratch marks but is quite rough then it's likely that it will have a good enough key.

bringing to level with top section of wall

use browning and make it level to the existing browning so that the finish can cover the lot in one go. let the browning totally dry out (couple of days)

don't forget to leave an air gap at the floor ~1" to prevent bridging of any damp.

 

[wese]

cheers guys,confirmed how i wanted to takle it,wish it was as easy as painting joe lol,alot quicker maybe and i dont use a sander to get my final finish unlike a job i had to rectify for someone,they went for the cheaper quote lol,whole lot had been sanded down with orbital sander,you all know the old saying,get what you pay for lol

cheers again

 

[clout stench]

Jerry,

How do you get on with finishing the browning once it's 'fully' dried out?

I'm only asking because when I use browning I try and skim it the same day if poss because it sucks so much. I struggled like fu** finishing a wall once when I had to leave it over the weekend.

I find that with bonding and browning, if you finish the same day (when it darkens) the finish goes on lovely and minimal effort is required to trowel up giving a beautiful finish.

Just wondering what you do, so that I can make my life easier and days shorter!!! I'm guessing that you soak it first (which isn't always practical) or PVA it which BG don't recommend.

 

[wese]

hi bud

i go over it once its dried,i seal it,then 3/1 mix pva ,then finish coat once tacky,does go of quicker,but not to quick,funny you say bg said not to pva browing prior to finish coat,as they told me a while ago to let dry then pva before the finish coat,lol,always seems to be so many ways of doing things,like i said before on my post above,you would of thought that bg would be the best people to give the right advice as its there products we are using,but we both have been told different,

 

[JerryM]

Clout stench,

i only know this way and have not tried anything else. given what you say i might try yours on my next job.

your not wrong - the suction on dry browning (and bonding) is something else. this is what i do and the results are top notch. I've had problems in the forum explaining "thin coat typ 1mm" - you sound that you will know what i mean , it's easier to show than to say - it's a thin trowel coat enough to spread evenly to just take out the unevenness in the browning.

• Mix to fairly sloppy/soft
• Apply 1st coat to very thin thk ~1mm (no need for PVA on browning/bonding but needed on existing plaster).(I start top down & left to right as i'm left handed)
• Leave to set slightly
• Apply 2nd coat to very thin thk ~1mm. Use to compact the coating and to level out
• Leave a little till starting to set (if in doubt start polishing)
• Polish by applying water via stiff long bristle brush and follow over with trowel
• Keep a little of the 2nd coat batch to make good any "cat eye" crevices during polishing


the important thing is not to panic as its the natural 1st thing that comes to mind due to the suction. don't worry about the time spent on the 1st coat just work each section as you go and accept that it will dry out. i would do 2 opposite walls at once - no more. the trick if their is one is to get the second coat as near finished as poss as you go. don't spend too long on the 2nd coat aiming to get finished in time to start the polishing where you started as soon as it will take it.

i also only use thistle.

 

[diyisfree]

Wheyhey, for some reason my posting privileges where removed ?

Maybe because i wanted to tell a certain person what a dick head he was. anyhow, the mods have now re instated my privileges.

Should i feel grateful ? honoured? feel a team player? maybe i should feel relived that the mods have got together and thought " well he isn't that bad" ??????

You tell me. anyway, Joe, don't jump in with both feet first. Maybe you could ask the OP a little more info before you bring him down in flames....

So far as letting bonding or Browning go off for a couple of days before skimming, What a knob. If you skim the same day once the base coat has stiffened sufficiently, (as already mentioned) then you will get a first class finish.

If you let it go off and dry out for 2 days then you WILL not get a finish. you WILL have to either wet, or pva to cure the suction.