BRUSH MARKS - SATIN QUICK DRY.

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I have had problems with regard to SATIN FINISH QUICK DRY PAINT - I found it drags, not flowing , difficult to work and hard to`feather off.

Contacted paint manufacturer and was advised to add 5% water which helped a little.

Would any pro-decorators care to advise .{attended an 8wk painting course, so have a little knowledge} thanks.
 
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I hate the stuff, the finish is not on par with the oilbase products.It is best to slightly thin it as wont be as draggy to use.
If your finding its still too draggy might be an idea to add a bit more water, as it will flow better, but it could end up you doing an extra coat.

I try and avoid the waterbase at the moment, but the day will will come very soon where we wont be using anything else, so I better get used to it. :evil:
 
Rexion:
Just used Crown non-drip water based satin.

Lovely stuff.

You have to know how to use it, you've practically answered your own question really.
Don't drag over it because it dries quickly.

DO NOT STIR and as Eddie M suggests, use a soft brush.
Say you're doing a casing.. don't take it all down in 1, so...paint 1 intricate edge and straight piece at a time, taking it all the way down, so as not to lose your "wet edge", put plenty on, then start another small section and bring that all the way down.
Work quickly when using it, you should find that you learn how to use it and I wouldn't thin it and never have, because that takes the good finish off it, but if you have to, then you have to.
 
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There is loads of problems with Water/Acrylic Based Eggshell/Satin/Gloss Paints.

Especialy when used over previously painted Oil Based Surfaces.

Though be very carefull with applying these coatings above to thickly as they can crack.
 
Third_Eye said:
There is loads of problems with Water/Acrylic Based Eggshell/Satin/Gloss Paints.

Especialy when used over previously painted Oil Based Surfaces.

Though be very carefull with applying these coatings above to thickly as they can crack.

unbelieveable :LOL:
Crack my arse.
 
All responces to the post greatly appreciated {keep them coming}, great to hear from Pro-Decorators and there view. Anyone tryed WICKS DIY own brand SATIN QUICK DRY OR EGGSHELL? Also, does the dilution of paint by water or thinners result in a`lack luster finish`. And what in general do the trade add to make paints flow. { keen diyer you see} :)
 
I used the crown water based eggshell over oil based...even after a rub good good rub down it peeled like a banana.

I wont do that again, next time i'll use acrylic undercoat first.

It can also ciss up when you put it over oil based

Water based technology is slowly getting there...but theres a long way to go yet with the water based alternatives

The Dulux and Johnstones water based glosses are a prime example, they have the closest finish to a traditional oil based paint but it comes at a price...opacity is awful, unpleasant smell, not as white as some water based paints and if you use them inside in cold damp conditions like on a new site they will take a week to dry.
 
Growler said:
Third_Eye said:
There is loads of problems with Water/Acrylic Based Eggshell/Satin/Gloss Paints.

Especialy when used over previously painted Oil Based Surfaces.

Though be very carefull with applying these coatings above to thickly as they can crack.

unbelieveable :LOL:
Crack my a**e.

Not again "Growler"...................

Some Paints have an recomendation which writes, "Single Coat At Standard Thickness".

If you scrape Paint on then this creats heavy brush marks (apart from Oil Based Gloss).

If you apply any Paint beyond its thickness capability then there is an chance it will crack. This is very common with One Coat Emulsions when applied over Sheen or High Sheen finishes, as the One Coat Emulsion is to far thick.

It is the same with Acrylic Eggshell/Satin/Gloss when applied over Sheen or High Sheen Finishes, when applied to thickly.
 
Well because I don't have any problems , I must be applying it correctly.
I load the brush generously, applying a good liberal coat in one application.

I don't have problems I know how to paint and how to achieve a good finish.

You're the guy with all the problems.
You should consider packing it in. You must have had more paint drop off, shell off, than anyone else in Britain.

I'm waiting for you to tell us not to use the empty tin for storing food in.
Could be dangerous.
 
Keep the tin out of sunlight.............

could blow up.

Can't be too careful.
 
Growler, once AGAIN you are taking the route of personal attacks.

However, i wont be drawn onto personal attacks.

You claim to know this, "You're the guy with all the problems.
You should consider packing it in. You must have had more paint drop off, shell off, than anyone else in Britain." Thats your freewill.

Every person who comes onto this Forum ALL have a problem with an surface or an paint. All i do is explain what to watch out for and what best route to take.

I do this because Paint Companies can change there literiture at any time without notice. One classic is Masonry Paints being applied over new/bare Render etc.......as they used explain to use Stabilizing Solution prior to applying Masonry Paints on new/bare surfaces............

Now, with this in mind with above paragraph. This is why i answer questions in the way i do.

All the best.........
 

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