Buzzing Dimmer Switch

[SaladFingers]

Take the tube out the fleurescent for now then it wont affect the dimmer

He or she has already taken the starter out, but the ballast will still be connected in the loop, so ought to be disconnected.

What loop
Its a switchstart fitting, the live will go to the choke then will only go to one unused hole of the lampholder with the lamp out
There may be a capacitor across the supply but i think unlikely to bother the dimmer

The ballast is still connected in the circuit and will be trying to do something, much like a transformer with no lamp. Plus not all ballasts like to be run with no tube.

 

[phatboy]

There is a very high chance your dimmable LED lamps will require an electronic LED compatible dimmer. These are silent, at any brightness.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

I bought a 250 watt dimmer today and found it buzzes unless it is fully on.
My lighting presently consists of 300 watts of downlights and a striplight.

When chosing dimmers you need to get one that is rated higher then the full load output, when using halogens you would require to have it rated about 25% above the full load or problems such as buzzing and over heating, leading to failure will occur. Most striplights, such as fluorescents with ballast and chokes are not designed to be dimmed in a domestic installation.

Plan is to disconnect the striplight and replace the halogen bulbs with 25watts of LEDs so need a low wattage dimmer for this.

Disconnecting the striplight is advised.
Replacing existing for LED, I assume this will bring the load down? As you have not specified the wattage of the existing lamps nor the number of them.
When choosing dimmers for LEDs they need to be compatible with your set up, whether low or extra low voltage and rated correctly at both ends of the rating range or again you will have operational problems. If the load is too low for the dimmer, it will not work. An example being if you had 4 number 5 watt LED lamps on a 250W dimmer, which low end rating would be 25W. Then as the overall load is only 20W, it will not function.

I guess I just want know if you think once I replace the bulbs with the LEDs and once striplight is disconnected that it will be ok, if you suspect not could you explain why?

Hope the above information has help.

 

[pjcomp]

Griffbabe, your buzzing dimmer is not necessarily due to the load - some dimmers buzz, end of story. If you leave your 250W dimmer connected to 300W of halogens it will probably burn out before you can replace the lamps with LEDs.

Not all LEDs are dimmable, and those that are need a particular sort of dimmer; the one you've installed may not be suitable.

The fluorescent tube is not dimmable; disconnecting it for testing purposes is OK but if you plan to dim the lights in that part of the circuit you'll have to get rid of the tube altogether.

PJ

 

[JBR]

JBR, you stuffed jumper, I can't believe you called my brightswitch a lame joke.

My forum feelings have been terribly hurt.

Bitterly dissapointed.

Sorry. Yes, I can be sometimes. Actually, your 'brighter switch' was quite funny but I felt a bit sorry for the OP who I think may be new and may not yet understand the DIYnot sense of humour!