Bypass valve

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Location
Herefordshire
Country
United Kingdom
I've recently had an invented cylinder fitted.

The plumber has fitted a bypass valve between the boiler pipes.

Red end set to 1.5.


The pipes to it get hot as soon as the system starts up. I'd much rather the heat go into the cylinder!

Can I crank it up to 2 ?
 
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Is the heat up time slow? What issue are you seeing?
Maybe it is going through the cylinder but the pump is running too high so some bypasses as well. You'd do better to explain your issue to the installer as they are qualified to adjust these systems.
 
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An " Invented " cylinder you stated you had !! Not sure ,but I think you may have meant Unvented. And if so you shouldn't meddle . contact the installer .
 
If water was not bypassing in DHW mode, then when in CH mode and in the event that all TRV’s close , it wouldnt be doing its job or is my understanding of the ABP valve wrong?
 
Abv is to ensure minimum water quantity flowing through the boiler at all times even when all the valves are shut.
Ideally it should be closed until that point, but it can also prevent noise caused when all the water is flowing through one rad and the pump is fixed speed
 
Starting the HW and CH from cold this Tower grassland bypass valve is bypassing which clearly it shouldn’t.

I tried to adjust it reading the instructions but the 1 indicator stayed in the window.

It said in the instructions to unlock the screw tried that too.

Is the adjust knob meant to go round more than 1 rotation ?

Advise welcomed in how to adjust
 
Don't let me down please guys!

Don't tell me I need to bother the busy plumber for a minor adjustment!
 
Which boiler do you have (make and model)?

Make and model of pump (if not built in to the boiler)?
 
When I had my system converted to a sealed one with unvented hot water cylinder (keeping my existing boiler), it kept overheating and popping the overheat safety button. That was because the installers had left the valve open too much and heated water was going straight back to the boiler without dissipating the heat to the hot water or radiators. The previous system was a Y plan so it didn’t have any automatic bypass fitted. I had a fiddle with it myself by closing it off, running the heating with just one radiator open until it was up to temperature and then gradually opening the valve until the bypass started getting hot. I then closed it off a little. Been fine since. I check it’s working now and then by switching the heating or hot water down when it’s near to working temperature and making sure it opens. You can hear/feel that it has opened.
 
yeah thanks. I think I would know what I would do to adjust it, I just can't quite work out the simple part of turning the knob!

I have 2 towel radiators without TRV, and don't have the elec stat set high anyway.

Yes my system has been converted from Y to S in the summer. Always been unvented.
 

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