Cable size for extension?

[Nugget75]

Hi guys,

My mum has just moved in to a new home and will shortly be having work done in her kitchen.

As it stands where she wants her microwave, kettle and air fryer runs a risk of overloading the socket.

So I’m going to run a temporary extension for her from a socket that’s lower down behind a cupboard. I say temporary because it’s only going to be there for a while until the guys do the refit.

I’m just going to run a 13a plug with 3 core and a socket/external surface pattress box up to where the other ones are.

I know I could just use an extension but she’s fussy and won’t have it so I’m making one so it looks neater for her.

My question is will 1.5mm cable be ok? It’s only going to be around a meter long and around 13a on full draw. And as I said it’ll be protected by a 13A fused plug.

Or should I use 2.5mm as I would if it was a spur?

It’ll be primarily for the kettle use and the load socket is on a 32A MCB.


Thank you for your time.

 

[oldbutnotdead]

1.5 protected by a 13A fuse is fine. The better solution is to run the kettle (2kw ish) from the fixed socket and either the nuke (900w) or air fryer (500w) from the trailing lead.

 

[robinbanks]

either the nuke (900w)

Think you might be confusing cooking power with input power there; 900w might be a typical cooking power rating for a microwave that takes double that in electrical energy to actually run.. The rating plate on the microwave should be consulted to find out what its energy consumption is

It should also be considered that a microwave may well operate for much longer than a kettle, and a cooking operation may involve the air fryer for extended periods too

runs a risk of overloading the socket

Sockets can always handle more current than the fused appliances plugged into them can draw

 

[Nugget75]

1.5 protected by a 13A fuse is fine. The better solution is to run the kettle (2kw ish) from the fixed socket and either the nuke (900w) or air fryer (500w) from the trailing lead.

Thanks very much.

Your suggestion was already in my head and it’s what I will try to do (run the kettle from the fixed socket)
I’m just not 100% sure I can yet until I get over there and have a better look.
But if I can then I certainly will.

Just wanted to make sure the 1.5mm was ok for worst case scenario.

Thanks again.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

You could fit a surface socket along side the existing one as a spur from the original

 

[Nugget75]

You could fit a surface socket along side the existing one as a spur from the original

Yes, thanks.

The only reason I’m didn’t really want to go down that route is because she’s having it all refitted soon so it’ll all be done properly then anyway.

 

[robinbanks]

I could just use an extension but she’s fussy and won’t have it so I’m making one so it looks neater for her.

Triple outlet sockets that fit in a double back box exist:

LAP 13A 2G to 3G Switched Converter Socket White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Ideal for places where extra outlets are required. Impact-resistant with polycarbonate front plate and white plastic finish. 13A fused. Suitable for flush mounted box. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

And you can keep it for the refit

 

[Nugget75]

Think you might be confusing cooking power with input power there; 900w might be a typical cooking power rating for a microwave that takes double that in electrical energy to actually run.. The rating plate on the microwave should be consulted to find out what its energy consumption is

It should also be considered that a microwave may well operate for much longer than a kettle, and a cooking operation may involve the air fryer for extended periods too


Sockets can always handle more current than the fused appliances plugged into them can draw

Hi, I’m not confusing it

The microwave is plugged in to one side of the double socket and the other is the air fryer.

She was using a double adapter for the kettle which I hate anyway, whether I thought it was overloading the socket or not.

I just need a simple way to isolate one of the appliances (maybe kettle) until she has it all refitted.

 

[Nugget75]

Triple outlet sockets that fit in a double back box exist:

LAP 13A 2G to 3G Switched Converter Socket White - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Ideal for places where extra outlets are required. Impact-resistant with polycarbonate front plate and white plastic finish. 13A fused. Suitable for flush mounted box. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

And you can keep it for the refit

Thanks I’ll take a look.

 

[davelx]

Thanks I’ll take a look.

Note that those converters are fused, so max load across all three outlets is 13A

 

[Nugget75]

Note that those converters are fused, so max load across all three outlets is 13A

Yes, thanks. I did just notice that.

Am I right in thinking that double sockets are 20A combined?

The Microwave is around 6.6A and the Air Fryer is similar. So I’d be pushing the triple to the max.

 

[Sureitsoff?]

Double sockets I think are rared for 26a combined but I doubt your m/w will draw 6 a and the air fryer will have a thermostat so will not draw current constantly. About the only thing that does draw a constant current is the kettle and most these days are about 2000w or about 9a

and if you fitted a socket the faceplate can be re used for the refit

 

[Diver Fred]

Thanks very much.

Your suggestion was already in my head and it’s what I will try to do (run the kettle from the fixed socket)
I’m just not 100% sure I can yet until I get over there and have a better look.
But if I can then I certainly will.

Just wanted to make sure the 1.5mm was ok for worst case scenario.

Thanks again.

A kettle - 2.2Kw is the both the input power (from the wall socket) and the output power (heating the water).
A 900w Microwave is the Output power, the exciting electronics also consume power in excess of the power used for heating the food; typically for the Input power double the Output power to determine the load on the Socket.
Airfryers also have a difference between input and output powers, again the input power is larger than the output power.

 

[Why Not Indeed]

Airfryers also have a difference between input and output powers, again the input power is larger than the output power.

Air fryers are mostly a resistive heater + a fan. The fan and control electronics will be negligible compared to the heating element, so I think you can ignore them and treat it as just a thermostatically controlled resistive heater.