If you did not know about eaves tray, and maybe comb fillers, or reusing battens and tiles, then probably not.
I was going to use some dense polythene like DPC as opposed to an eaves tray. Are there any drawbacks to this? Is one more advantageous than the other?
How long have you got it for? Seems like too cold for this kind of thing.
My 3 storey roof looked same. I removed as much of the growth as possible with a stick.
8 weeks but company are flexible
What kind of stick? So is it possible to stand on the scaffolding and just use a stick to remove the moss?
Thank you.
It's right. It is not the job of the felt to make a roof watertight, it's the job of the tiles. Fel is a backup, but does make it harder to trace where a leak is sourced. See if you can find the problem from inside when it's raining. Poke an inspection camera down the felt overlap or shine a torch and see what you can see
I don’t really have this luxury.
The home belongs to family member, so I can’t access the loft area when I want to do a full investigation.
However after a downpour, I observed that the felt was torn/ perished in all the places water was leaking in. The ends (where the felt tracks into the gutter) was complete shot.
My logic is as follows - the felt is too severely damaged (in the lower portion of the roof), so the only option is to strip the roof (tiles, battens and old felt) in the lower portion where the leak is. Then just install new membrane, eaves carrier/dpc, battens and tiles.
Roofing isn't hard. Most things in building aren't intellectually hard; if they were then most of the trade would be out of a job. What you lack in experience you can, in most cases, overcome with patience, logic and attention to detail and as it's your own house you'll generally be interested in doing a better job than most "professionals" and more likely to follow manufacturer guidance to the letter because you don't think you know better.
One advantage for roofing is that Marley produce highly detailed how/to guides that tell you everything you could possibly want to know about installing their products, including dry ridges, eaves trays and comb fillers. Example:
https://www.specifiedby.com/marley/...Tile_Operations_Fixing-Guide_Instructions.pdf
Concrete tiles are rarely nailed every row. To take your roof apart, having roughly located the problem, find a row of tile that can be slid upwards with some determined effort, revealing the nails that hold the lower row in, and work down to the spirce of the problem. If the problem is in an unnailed row and the row above is also unnailed then replacing a tile can be an easy few minutes job.
That's brilliant. Thank you for the encouragement. That link is fantastic. You can't beat the manufacturers guidance.
Can't wait to get cracking. Although you say that the excitement will soon pass. I also hate heights, so not sure how this is all going to work. But so excited.
That you're getting scaffold indicates to me you're planning a full reroof; it would be better to have a surefooted assistant With you to carry - some aspects of building are physically tiring and mentally impactful because they're bleak when you do everything solo
Not quite. This is going to be a patch job.
The loft is bone dry. Only the bottom 20% of the roof area is affected by the leak. So, it seem wiser to lift this area up and patch it.
If the job goes well, consideration for a complete re-roof may take place later down the line.
Particularly regards cleaning the moss up, think carefully before taking a jet wash to your roof, as it can cause further damage if set too aggressively and result in creating more problems than it solves
Thanks for the advice. I definitely won't use a pressure washer. Too risky as you mention
I was going to use a stiff brush as suggested in the video below.
@DiyNutJob also suggests a stick.
