Can I commision the end station without a bell box?

[NewOrder]

Nearly done the alarm now. Most the wiring is in place still got the contact circuit to add but all the PIRs are done.

I wanted to start the testing process tonight to make sure all the PIRs work etc. Would it cause problems if I begin to setup the control panel before I wire up the bell box (the weather doesn't seem permitting to fit this for a few days).

Finally I have wired up the control panel mains using a 3 amp FCU. I have used T&E do this, but would it better if I used flex from the FCU to the alarm box?

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

Testing without the externals is fine.
It is acceptable to use flex from the FCU to the control panel. In fact much easier to use, as long as the run is not excessive. The 3amp fuse is the correct one to use.

 

[NewOrder]

I have used T&E, its perfectly secure and fine but obviously it is hide to route exactly where I want it but as longs as using T&E won't break any rules I will leave it.

Having to call it a night now spent far too long doing this in-between jobs and my college work and night clubs.

Getting behind with the project because I had planned all my routes and where everything was going only to discover when I used my electromagnetic field tester that all the mains cables were buried under that wall!

Thankfully that simple test saved a massive disaster and my 18v cordless Dewalt has been a real god sent too.

Only got one PIR working so far, but when I do a power up test the RED LED stays on solid, is this normal, the control box has not been setup yet, its still at the bleep bleep bleep stage.

Been ten years since I have last setup a control panel so I am a bit rusty.

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

The LED issue could be one of a few. Have you wired it to the walk test output? What make and model is it and have you any pictures? ~What end station is it? Some new ones automatically activate walk test outputs in engineers mode. Without all relevant details there is no way of knowing your situation.

 

[NewOrder]

Not got as far as doing anything other than powering up the system yet. Not entered the engineers code or anything. The manual states that PIRs can take a few minutes to warm up so maybe it is just that?

Its a Texacom Veritas R8 with a remote keypad.

I have wired everything in parallel so save the complex junctions of the old system although I will connect the contacts in the kitchen in series.

I am eager to get the second PIR wired to see if that does the same, but I am tired and its not wise to be climbing up ladders at this time of night.

Edit I wonder if the PIR is on solid as I haven't wired up the tamper? The two terminals are just blank and I have used a jumper for now at the end station tamper terminals.

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

Parallel for the power I hope. Not the relays. Yes warm up time could be the cause of the LED staying lit. You could just "flylead" the 2nd pir from the end station and see what happens with it. You have not mentioned the make of the pir.

 

[NewOrder]

My brain is dead now so I cannot think logically, but will not wiring up the tamper on the PIR cause an issue or not? Do I need to short those contacts?

I assumed the tamper is only for the end station and thus doesn't need to be shorted on the PIR.

The PIRs are Texacom Reflex.

Yep all three PIR circuits are in parallel its a star shape. The contacts in the kitchen windows and doors will be series but there is no power to them.

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

The power has to be parallel, the relays series. Not connecting the tamper relays will not effect the operation of the pirs. It is a lower end model so may take a little to warm up and stabilise.

 

[NewOrder]

The power has to be parallel, the relays series. Not connecting the tamper relays will not effect the operation of the pirs. It is a lower end model so may take a little to warm up and stabilise.

Got round that problem simply by making each PIR parallel as the rooms where the PIRS are in a sort of star anyway each PIR is on a different zone.

The only circuit which will be in series is the kitchen window contacts.

Just on a side note, probably one for another thread but do people generally fit window contacts on UPVC windows?

 

[AssociatedAlarms]

You fit wherever the risk assessment indicates. A contact on a uPVC window may not work if the glass is removed though, or if the window is left ajar for ventilation. You have to decide the risk and what other protection is available to do the job in hand.
So that would be what is there to be taken, is it in a ground floor or adjacent to a flat roof/ drainpipe? Are there children or elderly about?