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Can I cut a section of damaged plasterboard out and replace?

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by Adam1991, 21 Jan 2019.

  1. Adam1991

    Adam1991

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    So the tiler is coming this weekend to do the bathroom and he’s said that because part of a wall is damaged i’d need to overboard before he can tile, the section damage is about the size of a A4 piece of paper...

    To me it seems overkill to reboard the entire wall, could i not just cut the section out that is damage and replace, and then he can tile on top?
     
  2. footprints

    footprints

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    Be best to overboard with aquapanel as you know plaster board ain't happy with water.;)
     
  3. Adam1991

    Adam1991

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    Haha i do indeed! This part of the wall however isnt near water so didnt fancy forking out the price for it ‍♂️
     
  4. Lower

    Lower

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    If you can cut the damaged section back to the studs so that you have something solid to attach it to, then yes.
     
  5. footprints

    footprints

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    As lower says, also you might need to put in a couple of noggins between the studs.
     
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  6. Adam1991

    Adam1991

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    I havnt taken it back yet but i think its dot and dab on the brickwork not stud
     
  7. NickB_99

    NickB_99

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    If it’s about a4 sized then not that big and not a wet area....
    You may get away with cutting out the damaged a4/rectangle with a Stanley knife to give decent edges to work to.
    As you say it’s D&D, the dabs will be spread out and the board edge won’t be fully supported. So you could squeeze in board adhesive under the lip of the outer using a small trowel to press in. Careful not to cause the board to bow out by forcing in too much.
    Then plenty of board adhesive at the edges of your a4 sized piece of plasterboard and some in the middle and press into place. Use a spirit level or piece of wood to ensure your a4 piece is same as the outer level.
    Where adhesive squeezes out the gap then flatten it off. Maybe even trowel some into the gap all round the piece and smooth it all flat.
    Once it’s set, scrim tape over the join.
    Should be ok for tiling.
     
  8. Adam1991

    Adam1991

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    Thats fantastic cheers for your reply! I was unsure whether it would be ok to do thst to be honest
     
  9. NickB_99

    NickB_99

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    Dry wall adhesive is pretty strong stuff, so should be ok.
    If you really want to be sure - you can apply some hammer fixings in addition to the dry wall adhesive.
    Need to ensure where a fixing is that it will have a decent amount of adhesive underneath the board to help support.
    I’ve done it where I drilled board first (was actually aquapanel) and marked through into brick. Board away, then drilled brick.
    Decent adhesive at the edges and dabs around the holes and pressed board into place with the frame fixings poking through board to guide in to drilled holes. The board needs to be counter sunk too to allow fixing to sit below level.
    You’ve got to have your holes right/deep enough and lined up, as it would be messy to take it off and do again.
     
  10. Adam1991

    Adam1991

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    Ok i’ll give that a good this evening, i havnt got any dry wall adhesive at the moment as i can only find it in bags of 25kg. Could i use tile adhesive or would that not have the same effect?
     
  11. NickB_99

    NickB_99

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    Wouldn’t risk tile adhesive personally, I’d use right tool for right job.
    B&Q seem to do 10kg bags just over £5. ~£10 for the 25kg bag even is better than risking tiles coming away later.
     
  12. Adam1991

    Adam1991

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    Ok no worries, thank you, much rather ask the question than take a guess and mess it up
     
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