Can I hand sand floorboards?

JP_

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OK, one idea .. as my floor is old and dirty, and I have been suffering mould allergy, and we want to improve insulation, and I want to DIY as much as possible as I have no money, I thought maybe ...

remove floorboards
insulate
hand sand each board outside
put back together.

So, would something like this hand sander allow me to do this job?

This of course assumes I can remove the floorboards without breaking them all!

img_20171101_082147415_hdr-jpg.129630
 
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You won't get them up if they're tongue + groove. You'll have to look - maybe take hem up + turn them over putting back in same position.
 
I took my floorboards outside to sand, when I had my floor up to insulate.

Use a belt sander, though. Cut across the board with a 60 grit, then in line with the board, then go down to an 80 and finish with a 120.

As to taking the floorboards up, I cut through the tongues on a couple of runs near the edge (use a floorboard saw, or a circular saw set very shallow, and be wary of pipework), and levered them up. I did the rest by putting a bit of 4x2 across pairs of joists as a fulcrum, and using another piece of 4x2 (quite violently) to lever up the boards 2 at a time, working along the boards. You have to be careful not to disturb the joists. You won't get the boards up with no damage. It's best to pull any remaining brads back through the board rather than out through the face- less damage to the face,
 
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Thanks Gerald!
This should be up to the task?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/BLACK-DECK...F8&qid=1509541030&sr=8-4&keywords=belt+sander

I've already ordered:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B006ZMDVXA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01AI44PSK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00002N5TV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which I hope will help somehow!

Next question will be, what sort of insulation? I might add external insulation, so maybe just a wool type insualtion rather than boards?
I need to check ventilation under the house too. Would be a good time to possibly add or improve some air bricks.
 
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That's the size sander I used. I can't vouch for Black and Decker.

Easiest way to insulate, with the floor up, is with Celotex/Xtratherm/Kingspan boards between the joists. I cut mine with a slight gap, and supported them on screws while I applied squirty foam into the gaps, to seal them to the joists.

Underfloor ventilation is very important, and you need to make sure you don't block any air bricks or interrupt the air flow. You want good air flow under the floor boards, but completely insulated from the room above. My air bricks were at the same height as the joists, so I fabricated ducts from Celotex board, to duct the air flow below the insulation.

Hope some of this helps.
 
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Great advice! I actually bought some bottle cleaners yesterday as I need to go round and clean the air bricks I have - they all look a bit blocked up with webs and dirt.

Guess if I am going to do this, might as well do it properly and invest in solid insulation boards .... what thickness? 10cm OK?
 
You're not going to lose as much heat through a floor as you are through the walls or the roof. Nothing wrong with 100mm but 50mm would be adequate. Decide what you can afford ;) Look for seconds.
 
You can (do what I did)- drape the joists with plastic netting, stapled down the sides, and lay loft insulation on it between all the joists, which might be cheaper. Then put in a breather membrane under the floorboard.
I have to say though, looking at that floor - I'd avoid lifting it if it's possible to do so - it looks in pretty good condition, and it's a lot of destructive work to take up, sand and put down again. If you (unlikely I know) happen to have space to insulate it from underneath, then that's the way I'd go.
 
Just to add confusion I can vouch for rockwall flexi slab over rigid insulation. Much easier to handle and does not slump.

Not sure what a dirty floor has to do with a mould allergy?? Perhaps you can explain further what you mean.. does mould grow on the floor? can you clarify what you mean?

Surely,.. take care of the ventilation issue first (check airing bricks etc) and then fuss about the finish. I am strugging with a similar floor and insulating under it, and pulling it to get the insulation has not been kind to me, although I managed it. Skirting removed at either side of the room + 2-3 boards each side allowed for me to get rockwall inside the cavity. Removing each board and finishing board by board seems like a mammoth task ?
 
Now before you start rebuilding Rome, where is the mould, and what's causing it should be the first question. Lack of ventilation will cause mould as much as cold warms will, and insulating the floor and walls will do nothing without ventilation in place as well.

Does the mould allergy stop you putting carpets down, as a good underlay and cheap carpet will be cheaper than celotex, and a lot less hassle.
 
Mould was in the old carpet and underlay I think. There is some rotten wood in one corner. Could be a problem there.
Will probably just keep the floor as it is for now though. I've been scrubbing and spraying bleach about, hopefully this will kill off the mould problem.
 
Okay, you've got mould in the carpet, but you still haven't said why it's mouldy. You need to get rid of why you're getting mould, as well as the mould itself. Is there adequate ventilation, is the room heated properly, if there's mould in the corner, and the rotten wood, what's causing that. Is there a leak from the outside, or a damaged pipe.
 
Still investigating.
I am hoping it was just condensation mould from years of neglect by the previous occupant.
Bu the rotten bit in the corner could indicate a bigger issue.
Have decided for now to abandon underfloor insulation and focus on getting the room stable - cleaned, wallpaper stripped, and decorated. Last night I ahve the floor anaother bleach scrub.
I will be lifting a floorboard in the corner to see if it is wet under/on the wall.

Heating is good (but might not have been on before!) and while there are no trickle vents, the windows can be left slightly open and locked (storm latch?).

I am hopefuly that all mould issues are historic due to the way the previous occupant lived. But, there is a lack of insulation in walls and floors (loads in loft) and this will mean condensation can come back quickly if care not taken.
 
Still investigating.
I am hoping it was just condensation mould from years of neglect by the previous occupant.
Bu the rotten bit in the corner could indicate a bigger issue.
Have decided for now to abandon underfloor insulation and focus on getting the room stable - cleaned, wallpaper stripped, and decorated. Last night I ahve the floor anaother bleach scrub.
I will be lifting a floorboard in the corner to see if it is wet under/on the wall.

Heating is good (but might not have been on before!) and while there are no trickle vents, the windows can be left slightly open and locked (storm latch?).

I am hopefuly that all mould issues are historic due to the way the previous occupant lived. But, there is a lack of insulation in walls and floors (loads in loft) and this will mean condensation can come back quickly if care not taken.

Think this may be a big culprit
 

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