Can only bare wood be "knottied" ?

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Hi - my first post here - I hope you can help.

I have just moved into a house and all the door frames are showing knot stains through the paint, so I need to repaint.

Obviously these should have been sealed by knotty before even priming, but what are my options now ? Do I have to sand the problem areas down to bare wood and then apply knotty, or is there a product that I can apply to painted wood which (after undercoating and glossing) will stop future seepage ?

Many thanks for any help you can give.
 
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Sorry I have the same problem - of my own making. Does the knot oil eventually dry up or do we need to seal before re-painting ?
 
I have always believed that you cant use knotting over painted wood, and it should be used on bare wood.
And you would have to burn away the paint around the knot and seal with knotting.

But :D there is a great product called 'zinsser bin', and now B&Q stock it, its white,they only do small tins at the moment, as its not cheap, but you can apply that over the actual bleeding knots, (might be better to do it twice, just to be on the safe side), you wait approx 30 mins, and you can start your undecoating, then your top coats, and this will stop the bleeding from occuring.

I have found it in B&Q, under the section of specialist paint, infact, if you go to where the tile paint is, its normally around that area, it wont be with the undercoat and gloss sections.
 
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spice said:
I have found it in B&Q, under the section of specialist paint, infact, if you go to where the tile paint is, its normally around that area, it wont be with the undercoat and gloss sections.

Sounds about right for B&Q, don't put the knotting stuff next to the paint you're going to use over the top of it :rolleyes: !!
 
I'm having the same problem, doing a wood cabin style house where all the cladding was primed with Butinox but by someone else. It was done before it was built apparently in a big farm steading, however the guy didn't knot it, mind you there were thousands. However I mentioned it to the client and he decided to risk it, just finished it with two coats Butinox 3 and noticed yesterday on the front south facing wall a couple of knots bleeding. Never used this Zinsser stuff, could it be used here?
 
You can knot on top of bare wood..knotting sticks like **** to a blanket on nearly every surface

Rub the area down a little first to give it a key

Better still get yourself some white styptic knotting, its easier to paint over becasue it isnt brown
 
grant.mackay said:
I'm having the same problem, doing a wood cabin style house where all the cladding was primed with Butinox but by someone else. It was done before it was built apparently in a big farm steading, however the guy didn't knot it, mind you there were thousands. However I mentioned it to the client and he decided to risk it, just finished it with two coats Butinox 3 and noticed yesterday on the front south facing wall a couple of knots bleeding. Never used this Zinsser stuff, could it be used here?

If its exterior then you can only spot prime the knots with zinnsser.more info HERE
 
Just rang Polycell - they said the their Stain Stop was not suitable for preventing knots bleeding through. Their advice is to heat the knots with a heat gun, to draw out as much of the resign as possible and wipe it off with white spirit then use knotting.
 
You wont be able to wipe the resin off with white spirit

I have never heard of doing that anyway...you will melt the paint too...creating more work...just seal them with either clear or traditional knotting.
 
wipe it off with white spirit then use knotting.
:LOL:

They shud have said wipe over with meths. This works fine with Bare wood..but as Zampa said .......

Rite off to lager land.... see you in 2 weeks ......
 

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