Candy w/m trips electric and wont spin fast only very slow

[kolobos]

I have a Candy cm2 146 -80 washing machine and a few weeks ago the water would not get hot so i purchased a new heater and its been ok for a few weeks. The problem i have now is that during a wash cycle the machine trips the electric out or when it tries to spin it only spins slowly, sometimes it goes one way slow and then the other slow but never fast.

I have checked the carbon brushes and they are OK
I have installed a new program module and it made no difference.
I have dismantled the motor and it looks spot on, a little dusty from the carbon brushes but i have blown it all out, although not tried washer since.

What else should i check? is it may be the program selector dial?


Help much appreciated.
Cheers,
Steve...

 

[zipper]

It trips your rcd...or fuse? If it's the rcd you have an earth fault someplace. Is it leaking water from the seal after you fitted the new heater?
Had an AEG machine the other day with a similar motor problem (but no earth fault). Motor looked great & everything else checked out ok. For curiosity I dismantled the motor & borrowed a prufex tester from a local rewind shop to test the armature. It showed 2 shorts but there were no signs of visible damage to the commutator or burnt coils etc. Put a new motor on and everything was fine again. I'm not suggesting this is the problem in your case but maybe it's worth bearing in mind. Which motor is fitted on your Candy...Sole, Ceset, Hoover? Have you measured the tacho resistance & checked if the tacho magnet is loose on the motor shaft?

 

[kolobos]

Thanks, i will check the heater but i am pretty sure when i looked around the machine there were no leaks, the magnet did not appear to be loose and how do i test the tacho resistance?

The motor has no label or markings so i am unable to tell other than it looks like new.


Do you have a wiring diagram so i can put the motor on a test bench to see if it will spin at speed?


Thank you for the reply,
Steve...

 

[zipper]

If you have an earth fault on your machine it needs to be found and rectified correctly before anything else. This usually requires a megger & someone who knows how to use it.
The tacho has 2 wires leading to the motor terminal block, just follow them. If you have a multimeter set it on a 1 x ohm scale & measure the coil resistance. Then set the multimeter to AC volts & spin the motor shaft by hand while holding the probes on the tacho terminals. If it is ok you should register a small output voltage (3-4 volts). Only way to bench test these motors correctly is through a variac. Supplying a series motor directly with 230v is VERY unsafe. Your machine could be fitted with one of 3 or 4 different motors. To find out which would require the machine product number (should be on a sticker inside the door).
BTW are you sure the model is cm2 146-80??. I wonder if it is in fact a cmd146-80 instead, if so it should have product number 31000938.
The motor should have 7 or 9 terminals. A 7 terminal motor has 2 pins for the armature circuit, 3 pins for the field winding, and 2 for the tacho generator. A 9 terminal block is the same but has 2 extra pins connected to an internal overload device.
Sorry, it is not possible to post wiring diagrams. Any testing should be done by a suitably qualified person. Do not work on live appliances

 

[kolobos]

Thanks for your help, my model is 31000942. I have had the coils tested with special testing equipment by a professional and the coils are week but not rubbish im told.

Probably best if i get a new one.



Cheers,
Steve...

 

[zipper]

The field coils are normally quite robust. It is more often than not the armature which fails. Either because of an internal short, damaged commutator, or open circuit in a coil. Unless the motor has an earth fault or obvious physical damage it just isn't possible to confirm the integrity of the windings without the aid of specialized test equipment. Domestic appliance workshops don't normally spend time dismantling motors to fault-find at component level. It isn't cost effective & they usually don't have access to the specialized test equipment to do so either. The motor is good or bad, there is nothing in between. It is a waste of time anyway because you can't buy spare field coils or a spare armature. You can buy a tacho assembly or carbon brushes...anything beyond that & you have to buy the complete motor. Not exactly environmentally friendly but unfortunately that is the world we live in.

 

[kolobos]

Your help has been great, I'm gonna check for any leaks anywhere then I'm gonna buy a new motor and hopefully that should sort it. Does the program selector dial ever cause any issues?

 

[zipper]

Program selectors can (in some cases) develop a fault. A directive was issued in July 2009 addressing this issue. The fault was that the switches could sometimes cause the wrong program to be selected or just didn't work on one particular setting. 3 switches were involved & all three look the same except for the colour of the drive shaft.
If you need to buy one: The 12 position switch has a violet drive shaft & p/n, 41028011. The 16 position has white & p/n 41014502. The 22 position has red & p/n 41014503.
Before you rush out & buy anything I would make 100% sure there isn't an earth fault someplace on the machine.

 

[kolobos]

Cheers, i will be actively searching and testing soon when i get a minute.