car port lighting

[neiloneil]

I want to bring power from an inside socket out to a car port to power 3 lights and a pond pump.
I need the lights to activate by a p.i.r. timer, but also be able to over-ride the timer from an inside switch.

Could you sugest what equipment I will need to achieve this please?

 

[ricicle]

Not being rude, but if you need to ask this question then you are better off asking an electrician to do it for you.

 

[neiloneil]

Not being rude, but if you need to ask this question then you are better off asking an electrician to do it for you.

I promise to be careful.

I'm capable enough to install the equipment. but i will of coarse get a pro to check my work.

My own thoughts are to fit a fused spur next to the interior socket, run t&e up and through the wall into an ip rated junction box, t&e to each of the exterior lights. t&e to an ip rated junction box to connect to pond pump.
If this is fundamentally wrong , please let me know, because that is what I intended to do. My reason for asking the forum for help was to include a p.i.r. and some kind of over ride. I asked the question broadly so as to glean as much info as possible from the pros that do it all the time. Like maybe I need containment for the t&e and maybe I need a separate circuit from the consumer unit.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I'm capable enough to install the equipment.

Except that you do not know what to do.

but i will of coarse get a pro to check my work.

You can, but why not ask one first and he can tell you what you should do.

My own thoughts are to fit a fused spur next to the interior socket,

Yes.
You will need an RCD one if the circuit is not already protected by one if the new cable is to be concealed and not sufficiently mechanically protected.

run t&e up and through the walle

Not through the cavity.

into an ip rated junction box,

Why do DIYers love junction boxes?

t&e to each of the exterior lights. t&e to an ip rated junction box to connect to pond pump.

Don't use t+e outside - use hi-tuf (google) or similar.

If this is fundamentally wrong , please let me know, because that is what I intended to do. My reason for asking the forum for help was to include a p.i.r. and some kind of over ride. I asked the question broadly so as to glean as much info as possible from the pros that do it all the time. Like maybe I need containment for the t&e and maybe I need a separate circuit from the consumer unit.

It is a simple job but quite involved.

From Fused Connection Unit (assuming the socket is not already a spur) run the cable to the switch and then to the pir and on to the first light then to the second then the third (no junction boxes) depending on the positions of the appliances and accessories.
Most pirs can be manipulated by switching to have the lights permanently on so the switch can also be used for permanently off.

Then there is testing with some expensive equipment.

That will cover the lights.

The pond pump could be a different matter.
An electrician on site will be better able to advise.

 

[neiloneil]

Ok then.

It seems you think that this project is beyond my scope. I don't intend to endanger anybody or anything, so I will seek the advice I need from someone willing to provide it.

By the way, I do appreciate that your negativity is meant for my safety, so thanks for that.

 

[Diyisfun]

I think the question is good 'what equipment do I need'.
I cant see where he said he was doing it.
Anyway, not all electricians will know all, so I think to ask on here, then do research, then appoint an electrician or diy is valid.

I have a pir led floodlight, that can be switched on from inside by switching the power off & on quickly.

 

[EFLImpudence]

I cant see where he said he was doing it.

I promise to be careful.

I'm capable enough to install the equipment. but i will of coarse get a pro to check my work.

 

[Diyisfun]

I cant see where he said he was doing it.

I promise to be careful.

I'm capable enough to install the equipment. but i will of coarse get a pro to check my work.

Yes but that was not on the original post, that was said after 'you lot' started.

 

[EFLImpudence]

Does that make a difference?
If 'we lot' are not willing to help (for free) then that is the end of the matter.



Anyway, I thought I was 'quite' helpful as far as the lighting was concerned.
This is for another couple of weeks notifiable so, strictly speaking, with that level of knowledge, not allowed.

I realise April 6th makes a mockery of any safety considerations.

What more would be expected?
Start by drilling hole?

I will not give help for pond pumps as some of the products I have seen should not, in my opinion, be allowed for sale.

If all that was required was "How do I install an outside socket?" then that should have been asked.

 

[securespark]

My stock method of wiring external PIR lighting with more than one luminaire (or indeed PIR for that matter) is to fit a fused spur off a power circuit, then (usually adjacent to it for ease of wiring) fit an override switch (this could be outside or anywhere, of course) fit a 1G1W switch, labelled AUTO in the up position and ON in the down position.

From the 1G1W switch, a 3 core + CPC would run outside and round the house to wherever it is needed. Wherever you need a fitting or PIR, you tap off the relevant cores required.

Take a live feed from the fused spur to the common along with the live feed going out on the 3 core. The switchwire connects to L1. The neutrals and CPCs go together (but not to each other!)

Essentially, the switch allows normal night time operation via the PIR when the switch is open (ie up) but when closed (ie down) it sends power to the switchwire and illuminates the fittings regardless of whether the PIR's are activated or not. Returning the switch to the up position reverts to PIR operation.

As EFLI says, it is best to use a cable type designed for external use such as hi-tuf.

 

[SaladFingers]

Not being rude, but if you need to ask this question then you are better off asking an electrician to do it for you.

Not so.

This is a DIY forum, this is what it's for. This is not a tradesmans forum, dispite many thinking that it is.

If questions are asked, then it can be carried out safely.

 

[SaladFingers]

Does that make a difference?
If 'we lot' are not willing to help (for free) then that is the end of the matter.

Then leave.

This is a DIY forum.

If anyone has an issue with giving advice to the DIYer regarding electrical work, then take the issue of such a forum up with DIYnot admin.

 

[EFLImpudence]

If questions are asked, then it can be carried out safely.

Carry on and explain everything, then.

Should keep you busy for a while.

 

[skotl]

I think that SaladFinger's comments are a little unfair.

Sure, it's badged as a diy forum but plenty pros ask for advice too, and there is even a pro-only area (for gas fitters).
These pros offer advice for free and generally, as here, that advice is excellent and well received.

I think it is also vitally important that the pros point out where there are dangers, or where certification / regs are required, or where they have doubts over the OP's competence. That's perfectly reasonable and it does fall clearly under the banner of "advice" - nobody can force the OP to follow a certain path so the best that can be offered is reasoned advice.

In this case, I think that EFLimpudence and Securespark have been very helpful and very measured. At least B-A-S has not managed to find this thread yet...

 

[neiloneil]

Thank you all for your comments I have learnt much towards how to approach my project. I will ask my electrician for his thoughts on using hi-tuf 3core+earth to be run from a rcd spur to a 1g1w switch to a p.i.r.and to the 3 lights. omitting any junction boxes

I'll ask his advice also, on weather I need a separate spur for the pond pump, ensuring the pond pump complies to whatever is the latest relevant standard for submerged electrical equipment.

I rely on this forum largely for quality advice from people like yourselves. I do really appreciate the time you take to help others . many thanks x