Car Stalling when changing Gear

[darude]

Hello All,

Does anybody know what might be causing my Vectra (1.8, T reg 1999) to stall when I put my clutch down. It doesn't do it every time but probably 3 times a day (100 mile round trip for work). When it doesn't do it though, the engine speed drops to less than 500 rpm and "shouders" (power steering also starts to fail). It's getting very annoying when parking and coming to a stop (wouldn't be so bad if power steering wasn't affected). I've tried chaning the spark plugs, air filter and put some injector cleaner in with the fuel but this doesn't seem to of helped.

Many Thanks,

Darren

 

[cjbigboy]

Hi Darren

You're not having much fun with your Vectra, lol

Does the engine management light come on when it stalls?

Could be a few things Idle Speed control valves are a common problem on the X1.8XE engine, but part of the throttle body on the X1.8XE1. Typically 1999 was when the XE1 came out so your car might be either. Easiest way to identify is look at the oil filter, if it is a spin on metal oil filter it is a XE engine, if it is a paper element type inside the housing, it's the XE1.

Idle valve can be cleaned out with a good spray of Carb cleaner, watch your eyes though!! May help.

Loads of other things. Crank sensor, Cam sensor, EGR valve, and also the Ignition Coil pack. I just replaced this on my Astra as it was cutting it occasionally.

cheers

CJ

 

[darude]

Hi,

The oil filter fits to the front of the engine and it's a replacable paper filter.

The engine management light doesn't come on. I think the tappets are on there way out though, sounds like a bag of spanner when I start it in the morning, doesn't sound very healthy after it been on a while either, so could maybe be something to do with the cam sensor (although that is a complete and utter guess!). I'll try cleaning the idle valve (with my eye's shut of course!). The car starts fine, I don't know if this will rule out any of your other suggestions.

The cam belt also needs changing, I heard that it is advisable to change the water pump at the same time, do you know if this is true (the cars approaching 100,000 miles). I think I'll have one hell of big repair bill coming!

Thanks a lot for your help,


Darren

 

[cjbigboy]

Hi

You have an X1.8XE1 engine, which means the Idle valve is part of the throttle body and not serviceable.

Has your Vectra never had a timing belt changed before, if so I'm surprised it's still alive. Should be changed every 40,000 miles or four years whatever comes first. A new tensioner should also bit fitted and 2 idler pulleys if the old type. The only benefit from fitting a new water pump is that the timing belt has to be removed to fit the water pump, but I wouldn't bother if it's not leaking or noisy. Old tensioners and pulleys can rattle.

All Ecotec's rattle when cold, due to inssuficient Oil pressure at the top of the engine, but once the pressure has built up, are usually ok. You may have a dropped hydraulic tappet?

The cam sensor has no moving parts, so cannot make a noise. It works with the crankshaft sensor to tell the ECU how fast the engine is turning. If either sensors go faulty it can result in poor performance but would usually throw on the management light and the fault code would be picked up by Tech 2.

My advice would be this:

Get the Cambelt, tensioner etc changed ASAP particularly if it has never had one, as it will go bang and you will need a new cylinder head. and have a bill of well over £1000.

Make sure the engine oil is up to maximum.

If the cutting out carries on, take it to your dealer and get them to run a Tech 2 diagnostic test on it.

cheers

CJ

 

[darude]

Hi, Thanks for the advise, I will do as you say. The timing belt was changed just after 60,000 miles (my dad's went and cost nearly a grand and half to repair so i'm quite keen not to make that mistake).

Again thanks for you help, hopefully I will be able to return the favour soon.

Regards,

Darren

 

[Yorkspur]

I have a Vx Vectra 1.8 Club with the X18XE1 engine. It has been stalling when approaching junctions or slowing down for some time now but is getting more often.

After reading these and other boards on this problem I decided to try to resolve the problem as a local garage I took it to resulted in much head scratching by them.

Took off the part from the air filter that attaches to the throttle body and thoroughly cleaned the flap and surrounding bodywork which was BLACK! Took it for a test drive deliberatly having to slow for junctions even if there was no traffic coming and the revs never dropped below 900. It drove like a new car!

Thanks for the great advice.

 

[darude]

Finally got round to cleaning out the throttle body. If I didn't know better I would of thought that it was a different car. It runs great, even the automatic choke works now!

Thanks for the fantastic advice.