Is it possible to break into a cast iron soil stack to add a branch to a new location for a toilet. I was hoping to hacksaw into the pipe and use a plastic branch and connect the new toilet using plastic 110mm pipe.
Is this a bad idea ?
What's wrong with a Timesaver branch?
All you've got to do is cut out the right length of cast iron (I use a mini angle grinder usually) position the rubber boots, clamp it all up and then join on a bit of 110mm plastic soil pipe and whatever else you need.
The only problems are gaining safe access (using a grinder on a ladder is NOT a good idea, especially when you're about to release a heavy chunk of cast iron) and getting all the angles right.
OK - you COULD use a plastic branch with CI adaptors above and below - but it'll look rubbsih.
Brumylad..Before the introduction of Titan and bolted glands we used to lead caulk cast iron water mains.
Thes had to be done horizontally of course and the procedure was to first of all caulk tarred hemp rope in to the joint using the lead caulking tools you have bought.
Always a small cauldron of ordinary lead over a gas flame was in use.
To prevent the lead pouring out of the bottom of the joint we used an asbestos rope about one thick looped around the joint held there by a strong alligator type clip with a small gap at the top to pour into.
Although in the real olden days they used clay for the above task.
The lead was then poured in using a ladle
The rope was removed and then the caulking tools were used to hammer the lead further into the joint.
The one danger was water in the joint when the lead was poured. Just a small amount and the lead flew everywhere like a shotgun.
Made a remarkably good joint and some of the old cast pipe jointed like this is still in use after a couple of hundred years or more.
Vertical cast done like this would be much easier as the molten lead can't escape.