Cast iron

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Hi guys/girls, was just wondering how cast iron soil pipes were joined as I need to rotate the 't' from facing left to facing right as I'm re-planning my bathroom and thus moving my toilet to another wall.
Any help would be great thanks
 
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If it's old school run lead joints then I doubt you'll move it without great difficulty, if at all. Maybe better to renew the stack in plastic if you must move the WC position.
 
If it's old school as Hugh suggest, it may be the lead run or could also be mortared in. Depending on the length of pipe above (weight) you could also cut out the old branch with an angle grinder and put a new one in with the correct orientation, just needs to be supported correctly whilst doing the work.
 
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You won't move the branch out of collar so will need cutting out or renew soil stack.

The LCC soil was jointed by packing collar with yarn and pouring molten lead into socket by means of a ladle and running rope (squirrels tail) and finishing off with caulking irons , lead wool was also used......You ain't gonna shift it..:p

.....oh and if joint didn't pass an air test we used to paint it with black bitumen which kept building inspector happy.... :D
 
Lol..I bow to the obviously experienced cast iron guru :) just remember digging out what looked like mortar from a few of them in my time before resorting to the angle grinder. Guess it could have been a repair or something?
 
Since mortar is so easy and quick to use then I would expect that many were used instead of lead.

also think that I have seen some sealed with pitch ( bitumen ).

I seem to remember that I have used a blow torch to melt the old lead and brush it out.

But don't remember if that was to rotate anything. Probably just to dismantle the stack and recover the parts.

Tony
 
Since mortar is so easy and quick to use then I would expect that many were used instead of lead.

No it wasn't



also think that I have seen some sealed with pitch ( bitumen ).

Yes painted over the lead.

I seem to remember that I have used a blow torch to melt the old lead and brush it out.

Bull ****e.

. Probably just to dismantle the stack and recover the parts.

Ridged snap cutter or 9" angle grinder would be the kiddie. :p
 
Lol..I bow to the obviously experienced cast iron guru :)

Not a guru but someone who has actually carried out this type of work. :D

Unlike some who have commented on this thread. ;)

Westminster council were specifying LCC as late as the 90's whereas Islington council settled for timesaver back in the late 70's early 80's .... ;) although Islington council were specifying cast iron gutters and down pipes , yes we had to use wooden dowling and fix through ears with pipe nails. :p all joints sealed with putty.
 
What could it have been then that I've dug out of joints before, certainly wasn't lead but I guess it could have been a putty mix that's hardened over the many years, it had a texture of mortar that was starting to powder cause of it's age, that's why I mentioned it.
The finish was filleted up the pipe, proud of the joint, for weather dispelling purposes I guess. Couldn't see them doing that with molten lead but never having done it I couldn't say.
 
I have lifted and removed quite a few LCC types.
To remove the lead from the joint: drill 1/4 holes in 3 places around the bottom of the joint. Now with a blowtorch, apply heat around the joint. The lead will runout and the upper pipe can be removed or turned around. To remake the joint, pack with one good round of rope and finish with plumbers mate.
I would remove any pipe above this joint, then fit new plastic, but it's your call.
 

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