Cement around Drain corroded

[Jeff543]

The Porcelain/Clay hopper is broken, you can't repair it, you need to buy and fit a new one - the new hopper will come with it's own steel grid, so unfortunately the old steel grid is now redundant, a sad waste but that is the way the world is.

Just a time line on what has possibly happened. The existing hopper has been broken (it has not corroded) since it was broken (which i guess was many years ago) some of the water destined for the drain is escaping down the outside of the hopper - this has caused it and the surrounding paving slabs to sink/subside a little.

Ok thanks, how easy will the old one come out? Are they welded in or just placed in?

 

[Jeff543]

edited

 

[Jeff543]

It’s not cement, it’s the hopper. It’s a seperate part to the gully that sits on top to give a bigger catchment area and to hold the grid.

Take the metal grid out and you will see a joint a couple of inches down, remove everything from there upwards. It will either be 4 or 6inch and that size will decide your replacement. It could be mortared one or in a plastic collar.

According to this you have to dig up the entire ground to get to the connector pipe;

FloPlast D504 Square Hopper & Gully Grid | Underground Pipe Fittings | Screwfix.com


For use with universal gully trap (Code 19993). Includes 150 x 150mm polypropylene gully grid. Square hopper and gully grid should be assembled to the universal gully trap via underground drainage pipe (Code 14129). The assembly should take place out of the ground and then manoeuvred into place.

• 110mm uPVC
• Ring Seal Joints
• Suitable for Gravity Drainage & Sewerage
• Install to Depths of 10m

Layout 1 (free-instruction-manuals.com)

====================

You have to take the entire underground pipe out
to fit it.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Options are, remove the slabs around it, fit a Gulley surround, make good inside with a strong mortar mix, slabs can be replaced but may need cutting to fit. Or replace the hopper. Bear in mind a plastic hopper will not be a straight swap, you'll need to dig down, remove old hopper and the 'Collar' that joins it to the trap section before replacing with plastic. Replacing with a clay Hopper would be a similar task.

 

[Ian H]

When you say take the grid out, you mean it and the old hopper can just be easily lifted out or are they welded in or screwed in?

Thanks.

It’s probably got a bit of mortar around it but seeing as it’s broken it should pull out easy.

 

[Ian H]

You have to take the entire underground pipe out
to fit it.

You don’t, you have to go a couple of inches to the joint between the hopper and the gully trap.

 

[Jeff543]

You don’t, you have to go a couple of inches to the joint between the hopper and the gully trap.

I'd rather just cement up the broken bits, any ideas how I do a good mould?

Thanks.

 

[Ian H]

Just form it by hand like Patrick Swayze in Ghost.

 

[Jeff543]

Just form it by hand like Patrick Swayze in Ghost.

What? Are you joking?

 

[Ian H]

No. Do you really think you can make a mould and pour concrete into it, easier than you could pull out the hopper and push a new one in?

 

[Jeff543]

No. Do you really think you can make a mould and pour concrete into it, easier than you could pull out the hopper and push a new one in?

Like I said you can't just pull out the old hopper and shove a new one in in it's place like it's replacing one cardboard box for another, the old hopper will be firmly attached to the underground pipe.

Besides there is nothing wrong with the old hopper...so why wreck it? It's only the rim that has cracked.

 

[bsr]

I'm confused. Since you know better than the rest of us... Why are you asking?

 

[Ian H]

THE ‘RIM’ IS THE HOPPER.