central heating switching off on vaillant???

[jess30]

Hi Guys.

I really, really need your help. I've had a vallant eco 831 condensing combi just fitted. I'm getting really hot water but there seems a problem with the heating.It doesnt seem to work with the prog room thermostat.

When i dont want heating i'm getting heat and when i turn up the thermostat i dont.

My boyfriend has had a quick look but he's no expert. the roomstat is a wireless salus 500 (something). He said there is a box next to the boiler with a red light on. A cable leads to it from the boiler which he opened (dont know if he should) He said 2 wires in terminals 3 + 4 at the boiler go to this box with the red light. Sometimes a green light comes on. He's not looked in the box with the light as he cant remove the front.

Please help me.

Jessica

 

[Agile]

Jessica, I do think that you should be asking the installer who should have explained the operation of the controls to you.

While the system is under the installers guarantee its not a good idea to let your boyfriend go interfering with it.

You dont say whereabouts you live but I dont think that heating is a big priority at this time of year, mine has not been on for about 10 weeks!

Tony

 

[undercover]

Hi Jess.

Youve got a Salus RT500RF wireless programmable room thermostat.

I use them and like them. Seems you are not getting a call for heat sent when the stat is asking the ecotec831 for it?

The two wires from the boiler will be a switched live -on and switched live -off. Not sure in this boiler what term 3 + 4 are. Did your boyfriend see a 'link' wire in the boiler??

The front is easy to remove as it just clips on. In the back of the salus one of those wires should go into s/l -on and the other to s/l -off. Need to be careful as there is 230v (think the ecotec just feeds 230v and is not volt free???) in there and you would also see a live,neutral, and earth.

There may be a Vaillant installer who can give you better advice. Wires may be switched from what you are saying

 

[undercover]

There may be a Vaillant installer who can give you better advice. Wires may be switched from what you are saying

Easy mistake to sometimes make, and easy to fix if switched lives crossed.

 

[gas4you]

Terminal 3 is live out to programmer, terminal 4 is switched live back in from programmer.

I don't know, or have even heard of the Salus 500, but as a general rule with wireless programers, if you have a red light it is a problem with the RF link between sender unit and receiver unit, especially as you say it is sometimes a green light

To prove this get your other half to link between terminal 3 & 4 on the Vaillant and this should make the ch come on

 

[sambotc]

3 and 4 are the correct terminals for the switch on programmer, i am not familiar with this specific programmer, but i would have thought there would be a live and neutral to the sender unit too?

Is there a wiring diagram with instructions he should have left with you?

There are few things it could be, bearing in mind the light is red, which would indicate there is a problem?

the sender unit and prog room stat are not able to pcik up the signal between each other. The instructions should state a way of 'connecting them' which may involve taking the stat off the wall and moving it to the boiler/sender.

It is wired incorrectly.

There is a fault with the boiler or stat (in my opinion, unlikely)

How far is the stat from the sender and what is in between, e.g solid walls?

Only other thing i can think of, is that on the honeywell RF stats we use, there is a setting called optimum start which, if turned on, can make the system appear to be doing odd things. Hve a look in the manual for anything similar.

HTH Sam

 

[undercover]

Hi Dave.

Red light on the salus just means its switched on. Theres a switch behind the cover plate to turn it off. Green led when the stat is calling for heat.

Seems like wires crossed in the receiver. Can happen as its not that clearly labelled

 

[gas4you]

Sam, until proven otherwise I would doubt it is a boiler problem

 

[sambotc]

Sam, until proven otherwise I would doubt it is a boiler problem

Sorry, maybe the above post was not very clear, i was listing possible causes to the fault, rather than stating facts, like a list of bullet points but..... without the points!

Out of interest, presuming 'undercover' you have fitted these before? What is your opinion of them price/quality/features etc, and what merchants do you know that stock them? Always good to hear about other peoples recommended products.

Sam

 

[gas4you]

Sorry undercover, I'm getting confused with you and Op

My last comments were for OP, but I take your learned observations on board about the coloured lights on the salus

 

[undercover]

Hi Sam

Used the Salus quite a bit now as well as the honeywell wireless. I think that the salus is OK. It does what it should and importantly it is very easy for the customer to set up. Got a good range of approx 30m.

Receiver sits near the boiler and can take either 230v or volt free. I think the Vaillant sends 230v so the salus also takes a live and neutral from a seperate 13amp fused unit.

Not wired one up to a vaillant before so would like to know also. The answe also may help out the OP

I usually remove the link on the boiler and then run a 230v S/L wire to the back of the salus. Here youve got a Live terminal to put your live to. (to avoid overloading a link/jump wire). S/L goes to S/L (on) -for heat on. There is a term for S/L (off)-heat off-not nnormally used. Finally a term for neutral. I find this set up works.

However, you can remove the receivers link (jumpwire) which i'm wondering if this should be done with the Vaillant. Then youve got Live, neutral, NC-not used, COM live feed from the boiler external thermstat loop, and S/L feed back to the other side of boiler external thermstat loop.

I'm interested to know how a vaillant would be wired.
I mainly fit W/B

Salus are readilly available from most merchants. I get mine from Grahams

 

[jess30]

Thanks undercover. So you think its a wiring prob. I have got a bit of red wire in a loop which came out of my boiler- would that be the problem?

Jessica

 

[simond]

If you have a 30mm approx loop of red wire then this is the part that the installer of the ecoTEC/Salus should have removed.

If you have it loose this has already been done.

I think you need to get the installer back.

 

[jess30]

Hi Simond.

The installer removed the red wire not me. The boiler is really well installed and everything is neat.

He explained how to use the controls and how to use the thermostat before he left.

BUT....when i want heat its not firing ie when i turn the room temp up. when the thermostat is turned down the boiler fires and the rads get hot.

My boyfriend is OK with electrics. If just crossed wires he can isolate electrics and swap????

Jessica x

 

[gas4you]

If the removed link wire is there thenget your boyfriend to put it back between terminals 3 & 4. Turn up boiler stat (heating) to full and boiler should fire.

Have you got a radiator symbol showing on the display? If not boiler is not receiving the signal from the stat to come on.

As said before, terminal 3 is live out to programmer stat, terminal 4 is switched live return. You should at present have at least a wire into terminal 4 from the call for heat terminal on the salus