Ceramic tiles and Hardwall

[Rapporman]

I am tiling over existing ceramic tiles and want to levelup a window reveal by about 5/6mm. I don't want to use the tile adhesive as it will take too long to go off but am thinking of using hardwall. Will it adhere to ceramic tiles and will it feather from 5/6mm to nothing over the tiles ?

I want to use hardwall if possible because I am currently using it for other work and don't want to buy another product just for the minimal amount of skimming required for the tiles.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

The spec says that only dry coat, as undercoat should be tiled on to. So going with the spec, no you can tile straight on to hardwall, I suppose if then did a finish coat on top you could, remember it is best not to polish the finish coat when you are tiling on to that surface, best left roughed up.

 

[Micilin]

I've seen loads of tiles onto hardwall with no skim . Rub up the hardwall with a sponge float and close in the fat, same as one- coat. Good idea to seal it up first though not essential.

 

[Rapporman]

Many thanks both of you. Yes, I intend to tile straight on to the hardwall but my main query was whether hardwall will adhere to smooth ceramic tiles ?

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

It should do.
But like I saidhard wall is not designed to be tiled straight on to.

 

[Micilin]

It should do.
But like I saidhard wall is not designed to be tiled straight on to.

You're dead right, but beer crates are not designed to stand on either!!

Aimes was not designed for making good, but it works.

So without being too much of a a smart arse -

Hardwall is designed to be skimmed, but that's only to give it a surface to receive paint, not because of any intrinsic problem with hardwall. When hardwall was introduced in about 89(?) BG told us it was designed to replace 6:1:1 sand n cement for internal work, (float and set)

This was because bonding was terrible stuff to use and browning was, not to put too fine a point on it, sh1te (although lovely to mix and use), and BG were not making any money from internal sand n cement, of which there was plenty at the time.

By skimming it you are introducing another layer - the bond between tile adhesive and hardwall will be as strong. This is why you tile onto render rather than skimmed render if possible .The bond between skim and render is weaker than that of adhesive and render or adhesive and skim ie you are introducing a waker bond into the system.A tiler will prefer a skimmed wall as he uses less adhesive (in the same way they don't like devilled up sand n cement to tile on) and ordinary hardwall to receive skim will use a lot of adhesive, and is a bit more porous/more suction.

If you are part tiling a wall of hardwall, you are obviously better to skim it all.

If you want a surface to tile, sand and cement is the one, but any sound skimmed surface will do you.

You can tile onto hardwall and it will last, and you can get hardwall closed in good enough with fat to help the tiler. I'm sitting about 5 yards from some that was done 13 years ago!

 

[Micilin]

It should do.
But like I saidhard wall is not designed to be tiled straight on to.

You're dead right, but beer crates are not designed to stand on either!!

Aimes was not designed for making good, but it works.

So without being too much of a a smart a**e -

Hardwall is designed to be skimmed, but that's only to give it a surface to receive paint, not because of any intrinsic problem with hardwall. When hardwall was introduced in about 89(?) BG told us it was designed to replace 6:1:1 sand n cement for internal work, (float and set)

This was because bonding was terrible stuff to use and browning was, not to put too fine a point on it, sh1te (although lovely to mix and use), and BG were not making any money from internal sand n cement, of which there was plenty at the time.

By skimming it you are introducing another layer - the bond between tile adhesive and hardwall will be as strong. This is why you tile onto render rather than skimmed render if possible .The bond between skim and render is weaker than that of adhesive and render or adhesive and skim ie you are introducing a waker bond into the system.A tiler will prefer a skimmed wall as he uses less adhesive (in the same way they don't like devilled up sand n cement to tile on) and ordinary hardwall to receive skim will use a lot of adhesive, and is a bit more porous/more suction.

If you are part tiling a wall of hardwall, you are obviously better to skim it all. Any skim you are tiling, as prentice says , better to leave it matt.

If you want a surface to tile, sand and cement is the one, but any sound skimmed surface will do you.

You can tile onto hardwall and it will last, and you can get hardwall closed in good enough with fat to help the tiler. I'm sitting about 5 yards from some that was done 13 years ago

And as regards hardwall on to smooth tiles, I wouldn't like it at all. But if you cleaned the tiles, so no grease/dust etc, chipped with a hammer , slurried them well and tested the slurry, you would be fine. Personally, I'd have it off, though. If you used bondit it and after a day or so you could peel it off - could you trust it?
!

 

[trowelmonkey1]

good work mikey!

 

[Rapporman]

Many thanks all of you for the info.

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

that's me told Smart arse

 

[Micilin]

that's me told Smart a**e

Aah no, you are spot on, it's not designed to be tiled directly onto. I'm just sharing the experience. As well as being a smart ar$e

 

[roughcaster]

that's me told Smart a**e

No PBoD,,not directed at you mucca. Micilin was refering to "himself" as being the smart ar$e,, sort of tongue in cheek you might say.