CH Programmers - rubbish offerings

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Having tried Salus and Timeguard, both are rubbish. Are there any other brands which have a good reputation?

My Wireless Salus thermostat functions but once it looses the connection, it's unpredictable how long I have to spend getting it working again

My 1st Timeguard 4 chan programmer had a horrid squeal (the backlight HF driver) and after a few months the backlight did stop working. The firm replaced it and the subseqeunt one didn't sqeal, but its back light did fail too.

Now, a few years on (and out of warranty) the LCD display has conked out too, so I can't interface with it, set the time etc etc. (I'd be unsurprised if they use the same PCB design as Salus...).

Any other brands worth looking at who do a decent THREE or FOUR channel programmer?

Note to Timeguard if anyone from the firm is reading... I don't mind spending £120 on what is £5 worth of components IF it is going to last a lifetime. IF it's not going to last on account of a cost reduction exercise, then expect to attract more unhappy customers.

Nozzle
 
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I disagree with Jordan.

I have my combi set to on all the time and use the wireless stat to turn the heating on or off.

I don't see that as wasteful.
 
The Drayton Wiser kit is quite nice (fitted one here over Christmas). Annoyingly, the 3rd channel is dedicated (hard-coded) to control hot water (traditional cylinder setup) so you can't use one of the room stats or the wireless TRVs to control it.
 
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Two things, what boiler, and what are you willing to pay to get better control?

Boilers come in two very diffrent designs, non modulating and modulating, the modulating boiler was designed to allow gaining latent heat, to gain that heat, the return water needs to be cool enough, to do this the lock shield valve and the thermostatic radiator valve (TRV) are the key controls.

However they have a failing, when warm weather arrives they will not turn off the boiler, so the wall thermostat is used to switch off boiler in warm weather.

With the non modulating boiler the return water temperature does not matter, so the control can be very diffrent. In main gas boilers modulate and oil boilers don't.

So thermostats can be on/off or modulating, some boilers have their own system, and some allow third party thermostats, normally using OpenTherm.

Some thermostats can work as master/slave, some can work as a hub connected to electronic TRV, and there does not seem to be a single thermostat that will do all.

I have lived in a number of houses, and first two were easy to heat, one had gas hot air, so single thermostat, other was open plan so again single thermostat, but other two had internal doors which means one thermostat is not enough.

The house with a gas modulating boiler with no electrial control on how much to modulate, I used programmable TRV's and once set worked well.

This house with oil boiler non modulating, not as easy, main problem is cooling not heating, the hall where thermostat is installed cools too slowly.

Heating needs to match the house, there is no one system suits all. And also one has to work with what is already installed, if already zoned with OpenTherm boiler then EPH thermostat. Yes Drayton Wiser likely the best system for a combi boiler with no zones, but the OpenTherm add on only works it seems with single channel. Without OpenTherm Wiser does a three channel thermostat that links to TRV heads, without OpenTherm Hive also connects to TRV heads, Nest has OpenTherm but does not connect to TRV head.

The list goes on.

A wall thermostat with 8 linked TRV heads be it Evohome or Wiser is expensive. So tend to mix, some dedicated and some stand alone reduces the cost, I fitted eQ-3 bluetooth at £15 each, Terrier i30 is another stand alone programmable TRV head.

The cheap hard wired wall thermostat programmable cost around £35 the wireless cheap ones tend to loose RF link, so jump to around £120 to get one which is reliable.

So tell us more about what you have and what you want it to do?
 
I've not tried Opentherm on my Wiser setup (modulating woodburner would be an interesting concept).

I am considering putting wireless TRVs on all the radiators- at current prices that'll be £450 to do the other 12- and ditching the motorised valves (given their current price i should get £50 or so for 3 on Fleabay). The Wiser heads do seem to be quite responsive - in that they shut the heat off when room temp is achieved without too much overshoot and restore heat before the room has cooled to uncomfortable. This may be helped by the hot water source being a thermal store, dunno.
Bonus for me is if I do go the total WiFi TRV route the number of channels on the hub becomes irrrlevant- every rad becomes its own zone.
Experiments to follow...
 
To the op's question, unfortunately you have tried the 2 cheapest naff brands on the planet.

For heating controls you can't go wrong with Honeywell, danfoss , Drayton or horstman
 
I found the Horstmann IMGP8037.jpg lost its RF link, also sold under many other names, the DT2 hard wired Horstmann upload_2021-6-24_23-24-52.png was however very good until battery contacts went after 10 years replaced with ae235.jpg which technically is better but I had to refer to manual each time I wanted to alter it, not intuitive like Horstmann.

But all depends on boiler, this 84067_P.jpg thermostat was very good, it had a auto shut down if RF link lost and also used a mark/space switching to stop over shooting, so as it approached target temperature it would start switching off and on.

However although that was great with a non modulating boiler, it completely mess up a modulating type, when a boiler switches off any heat is lost out the flue, and so you want the boiler to modulate fully before it switches off, and if possible the boiler switches itself off, so when it turns back on it turns on modulated then increases output as required, turning it off externally unless using a modulating thermostat means it is turned off when hot so more energy lost out of flue, and when it switches on again it does so at full output so will likely over shoot.

I found using the Energenie TRV head the report TRV_report.jpg allowed one to see if it had over shot the mark, if it did then close the lock shield a touch until it does not over shoot, once set it worked A1, and when we came to leave the house and put the old TRV heads back, they also worked A1 now the lock shield was set. This house used cheaper heads as well, the eQ-3 does not show current temp, and it does not use wifi, but has other features so all in all as good as the energenie type but much cheaper.

However with a modulating boiler the TRV is king, all the thermostat is for is to stop cycling in summer and turn off whole system at appointed time but still leave frost protection.

The upload_2021-6-24_23-4-47.jpeg Nest thermostat is only any good when a single thermostat will control whole house and when using Opentherm with modulating boiler, it does not connect to TRV heads, and so only controls one room, on/off function is OK with non modulating boilers, but not with modulating. It was good until Google took over and removed support for the Energenie TRV heads.
 

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To Timeguard's credit - they have sent me a replacement without 'quibble' and I will re-fit soon.

@sxturbo I bought the Timeguard from TLC-direct. As an electrical retailer with a good reputation worth defending, I assumed they wouldn't stock gear with a bad rep!

Nozzle
 
To Timeguard's credit - they have sent me a replacement without 'quibble' and I will re-fit soon.

@sxturbo I bought the Timeguard from TLC-direct. As an electrical retailer with a good reputation worth defending, I assumed they wouldn't stock gear with a bad rep!

Nozzle

They also sell Knightsbridge and other unsavoury brands. But they have to as a way of offering a range of product offerings.

There are many where price is king and many where as long as it lasts long enough until they sell or upgrade or keep the tenants quiet etc etc they don't mind and they won't be around for the failure and this won't be returned under warranty.
 
As an electrician I can't ever remember being called back to a faulty thermostat, I have corrected plumbers messes, but as tradesmen unless working in house we often don't get much feed back as to how what we installed worked.

As a house owner very different, if it fails I need to correct it, also if it does not work well. But we all tend to relate to our own home, my first was hot air, expensive to run, but did not matter where the thermostat was as air circulated around the house, so vents open or closed all rooms tended to be same temperature.

Second was open plan, did fit TRV heads to upper floors as they tended to get too hot, but it worked, so did not really think about it, changed from programmer and thermostat to programmable thermostat, but it worked.

Returning to parents house it was in comparison a nightmare, hall cooled quickly when front door opened, living room overheated if sun came out, mainly due to bay windows, upstairs over heated, the best room converted to bedroom was too cold. Originally coal fires, then coke, then gas, then central heating. The main problem was wanted individual room control. Also for living room fast control, when the sun comes out the radiator needed to turn off as quick as possible.

So want radiator only as hot as required, so it cools down faster, this is helped with a modulating boiler, but only if it modulates of course. Turning the boiler off/on does not help, it means the TRV has to work harder adjusting to fast changing water temperature, continuous flow and lower temperatures mean the TRV has a far better chance to adjust to room temperature, and also less likely to over shoot.

So where does the wall thermostat fit into all this? Well the old idea of a wall thermostat in a room with no doors to outside, no alternative heating, and keep cooler than other rooms clearly works with a modulating thermostat, and no TRV in that room, but how many houses have such a room? And also how many houses have modulating thermostats? Using EPH thermostats you can set as master/slave and still use Opentherm modulating control with a zoned home, but that means in the main a door on stairs and upper and lower floors separated, and we only use upper at night, one rarely have doors on the stairs, and two upper floors tend to be used during the day, so only real way is either all TRV control and a simple on/off thermostat to switch off heating in the summer all it does is stop the boiler cycling on warm days, or link at least some TRV's to the main thermostat.

So now the big question, with a boiler able to use a modulating thermostat does the modulating thermostat really work that much better than using the TRV and return water temperature to control the boilers modulation?

The idea of Hive seems good, fit a thermostat in a room, but also link at least some TRV's, which can send a demand for heat, so in essence the wall thermostat is a hub collecting information about the other rooms, it could be without any temperature setting, the EvoHome again uses same idea, although EvoHome can have an OpenTherm module fitted, also Drayton Wiser, where they fall over is where zone valves have been fitted, the Drayton Wiser for example can only work OpenTherm when a single channel model, the two and three channel versions will not work with OpenTherm.

Bosch boilers will not work with OpenTherm and you have to use their own modulating thermostat that does not connect to TRV's.

Even the TRV's don't work as well as expected, the anti-hysteresis software is often too much, I used Energenie and it would take 4 hours to settle at a new temperature, so I cheated and set 2 degrees high for an hour then back down to wanted temperature, the Drayton Wiser claim to work out what is required and work faster, but for any TRV to work water needs to be flowing and at least warm, even if not stinking hot, and any on/off control messes this up.

I did get mother house working well, but moved the same TRV heads to this house with non modulating boiler and no where near as good. In fact the cheaper eQ-3 seem to work better.

But if your eyes have not glazed over yet, it does seem the most important control is the TRV, the wall thermostat is really only a way to collect info from the TRV. Which is why in the main the Nest wall thermostat is rubbish, it does not connect to TRV's, great for first house with hot air system, oh and how are USA houses heated? Clearly designed for USA not the UK.

Most can be made to work, but to get a good system costs an arm and a leg, so we use a compromise. As to geofencing, it depends on time to warm up the house, or more to point rooms, if you have 9 kW of radiator output in the main room you can heat the room fast, and arranging a sequence which rooms first the initial rooms used when returning home can be heated fast, but a 2 kW heater in a large room may maintain the room temperature, but to raise it by 10 degrees takes time, and unless you work an hour from home there is not the time to reheat the home. So simple time works in the main better.
 

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