Cheap workmate mod

  • Thread starter Deleted member 242536
  • Start date
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Deleted member 242536

Hi All

So I have an old workmate which is like 20+ years old, kept in relatively decent nick aside from the loss of the rubber feet and clamping bits. Came across a few videos on Youtube of people building their own workbenches and replacing the tops of the workmates which inspired me to do something similar.

Obviously workmate tops tend to pretty small and mine is no exception, both boards measuring roughly 600mm x 120mm each and the thickness is around 15mm. So I'm thinking of replacing them with some 30mm MDF which would measure 800mm x 200mm. Use the old board to map the holes etc.

The question I have is, do I need to consider anything else before I go ahead with the above. Do I need to add any additional support to the frame itself if I'm increasing the size of the boards.

Thoughts opinions criticisms welcome.

Thanks
 
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use ply not mdf ply will be ok in damp with the odd wet occasion
you can glue 2x12mm together
what is the point in 30mm thickness ??
 
Find something better than mdf. In the real world, workmates get wet, and mdf will just swell. Other than that, it's a good idea, but remember not to go too far over the feet, otherwise it'll become unstable.
 
Thanks for the responses. The reason I was going for MDF was down to my understanding that it is a little bit more durable than Ply and the 30 mm thickness was purely to enhance strength and prevent any potential sagging. It'll only be a 100mm wider either side, so I don't think it will be far enough over the legs for instability to become an issue should it. I was planning to oil seal it so it would be water repellant would this not solve the water swelling problems?
 
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If you go for thicker than the existing planks, you find the orange peg/wedge/clamp things won't clip in as the tangs at designed for the original thicknes. Or may be like me you've don't use them as a set of quickclamps is much more useful.

Nozzle
 
Oh good shout shout that one Nozzle. I prefer to use quick clamps but do use the pegs every so often as well. I'll keep this in mind for when I get underway.
 
Khuz,
I did this to my (cheap) workmate after I put my rip saw through one end :<
My comments:
1) If buying wood, Ply is better than MDF for reasons everyone else said (damp). But if you have some scrap wood, try that, you can always change it again later.
2) Another negative for MDF is that it can also be a pain to keep the screws in as the screws will be short, and so you may find later that when you pick up the workbench over time the weight of the legs pulls the screws out.
3) To add to others comments, going for 30mm thick wood will add significantly to the weight. So perhaps better going for sticking with 15mm of 18mm.
4) I made the wood surface bigger, but I ended up going too large on the side with the handles and kept hitting my knuckles as I wound the handles (makes me sound neanderthal). But I simply fixed that as I cut some width off.
5) Keep the old tops so that you can re-use them as templates for future replacement tops.
sfk
 
SFK Thank you so much for admitting that you put a rip saw through yours because I did the same with a circular saw on mine. I hit my knuckles on the handles when I try to open them too fast and in one case ended up tipping my dad's circular saw and drill onto the concrete floor because it jammed. Appreciate your other comments as well. What dimensions did you use for your replacement tops?
 
Khux, :>
Just been to have a look and each side of mine is 730mm by 150mm, so total surface is 730x300mm.
And I noticed that I used two old lengths of square edge, pine, 6inch wide floorboard (hence the 150mm).

Other ideas I had when I did mine (to do it on the cheap and fast rather than buy a sheet of PLY) was a length of 140mm Decking (but these tend to be thick at 28mm), or two pine planks (but these might curl). Not suggesting you use wickes, but my quick search showed these.
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Premium-Reversible-Pine-Deck-Board-28-x-140-x-2-4m/p/101000
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Bu...r/c/1000199?q=:topSellers:Width:144+mm&text=#
sfk
 
Ooh that's interesting so I would likely catch my knuckles based on your dimensions because I was considering 200mm panels. I'll have a look and see what I have lying around the garage at some point, if not I need to hit the timber merchants at some point anyway and they are like 5 minutes away from me :).

I don't mind weight increase weight to be honest because I don't think it will add mega amounts to it. I've seen some of the newer tables weighing in at around 12 kg and I think mine is like 5 kg max based on similar looking ones I've seen around, so I have a good couple of kilos to play with. The amount of weight a couple of ply sheets would add I don't think will be huge. Although as I say this sentence I'm reminded of Boris the bullet dodge in Snatch "weight is good, sign of reliability"

Thanks
 
Khux, just to be clear, I knocked my knuckles on the much bigger Ply sheet that I first put on (and then had to cut a bit off).
This is version 2 as over time I then damaged the ply version, and is 150mm simply because I used Floor Boards. So your 200mm may fit, or reduce the opening of the gap.
And noting wrong with having heavier weight, until you have to carry it to the top of the stairs, and then those extra few kilos will make it a bit harder to maneuver and you will take a knock out of your newly painted wall. :>
SFK
 
I'll play around with some sheets before I do the final bit see how it goes. I'd love to say that I've never bumped the walls and knocked out newly painted walls but it would be a big fat lie that would make politicians look like truth telling saints ha!!
 
If you put on a wider timber it will foul the handles or reduce the opening width of the jaws.
 

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