Chimney pointing & guttering question

[5oysterman2]

Haven't been up as far as the guttering before & noticed a couple of things i am concerned about.

Some of the mortar on the chimney has fallen out, could that let in the rain? Probably know the answer already.

There is a join in 2 sections of the gutter & the joining bit is slightly lower than the sections. There was quite a bit of rubbish just before the join where i think because the join is slightly lower, it doesn't run off properly & collects.

Also the join is not fixed securely, should it be?

If that's not correct best way to sort it out. Many thanks for reading.

 

[blup]

Haven't been up as far as the guttering before & noticed a couple of things i am concerned about.

Some of the mortar on the chimney has fallen out, could that let in the rain? Probably know the answer already.

It could let in damp and rain and loosen the lead, get it repointed

There is a join in 2 sections of the gutter & the joining bit is slightly lower than the sections. There was quite a bit of rubbish just before the join where i think because the join is slightly lower, it doesn't run off properly & collects.

On the second pic you can see the words “ insert gutter here” with an arrow pointing to the centre line, you can get dripping or leaks if the guttering is short of the mark.

Also the join is not fixed securely, should it be?

They are clips not brackets, the gutter as a whole should be supported by regularly spaced brackets.

If that's not correct best way to sort it out. Many thanks for reading.

If you hire the scaffold all diyable

 

[5oysterman2]

Thanks for replying Blup.

Never noticed "insert gutter here" whilst up there. Is it feasible to cut a couple of bits of guttering & glue them in or would i need to buy a complete section to fit properly?

 

[blup]

Thanks for replying Blup.

Never noticed "insert gutter here" whilst up there. Is it feasible to cut a couple of bits of guttering & glue them in or would i need to buy a complete section to fit properly?

I would buy a new length although you might only need it one side ( there are separate marks either side to allow for expansion)

 

[5oysterman2]

Cheers Blup, many thanks

 

[Alastairreid]

Put a screw in the gutter union..helps support it. Screw hole on back.
If it's not leaking I would leave as is and give it a clean every year.

 

[ree]

OP,
Given there's a sag at the union, and previous accumulations of debris then why not remove the union & take out the rubber seals & clean everything up- - if the seals are OK then put them back or buy new.
Fit the LH & RH gutter lengths into the union & raise the union - there's a screw hole at the back of the fitting for screwing to the fascia.
Pour water down the gutter & observe that it falls & drains to the outlet.
If there are puddles or obvious snags then come back here.

Stay on your tied-in ladder with someone below, & why not use a selfie/long batten with a camera to pic all stack sides, esp the back gutter of the stack - also pic the top of the stack.
The flashing looks wrong.
To point the stack: grind out all beds & perps to 25mm depth & use a 3:1 mix of sand & NH lime mortar.
The roof tiles also look to be in a bit of a mess?

 

[Nige F]

O.P are you on a tied ladder, and who's below?

 

[5oysterman2]

Ladder not tied & the wife won't be at the bottom lol

 

[5oysterman2]

OP,
Given there's a sag at the union, and previous accumulations of debris then why not remove the union & take out the rubber seals & clean everything up- - if the seals are OK then put them back or buy new.
Fit the LH & RH gutter lengths into the union & raise the union - there's a screw hole at the back of the fitting for screwing to the fascia.
Pour water down the gutter & observe that it falls & drains to the outlet.
If there are puddles or obvious snags then come back here.

Stay on your tied-in ladder with someone below, & why not use a selfie/long batten with a camera to pic all stack sides, esp the back gutter of the stack - also pic the top of the stack.
The flashing looks wrong.
To point the stack: grind out all beds & perps to 25mm depth & use a 3:1 mix of sand & NH lime mortar.
The roof tiles also look to be in a bit of a mess?

We've had heavy rain last couple of days, so will get the ladders out & see what it like.

I might be able to get on the roof from other side of house because it's lower, if i can't or don't feel confident about doing it i will get someone in to have a look at it. At least i will be able to get photos of all sides of the chimney.

Reference the flashing, what doesn't look right?

I think the tiles are originals from when the house was built(1970)

 

[Alastairreid]

The flashing is a bit rough but doing it's job! A bit of raking out and pointing on the stack in a nice day is all that is required.
The poster Ree points out problems where none exist.

 

[opps]

Thanks for replying Blup.

Never noticed "insert gutter here" whilst up there. Is it feasible to cut a couple of bits of guttering & glue them in or would i need to buy a complete section to fit properly?

Don't glue guttering. The unions have rubber seals. In theory, those rubber seals should be sufficient. assuming no sagging and a proper fall.

If you haven't witnessed water leaking from the join in the picture, I wouldn't be overly concerned. A screw would be beneficial though.

Ladder work at height- up to you. Xmas 2019, my customer's son was putting up christmas light on his home. Ladder slipped. He spent months in hospital and now will spend the rest of life in a wheelchair. Don't get me wrong, I have taken many risks throughout my life. I am now in my 50's. If I fall off a ladder because I was too tight to pay for scaffolding, I hope that I do not survive.

If you know tradesmen in your local area, you may be able get a recommendation for a scaffolder. You only need one lift. If it is a couple of foot below the gutter height you can run a ladder up from the scaffold to the roof and then have access to the back of the chimney breast and the flaunches (the top of the chimney breast where the pots sit). I don't know where you live, but I (for cash) I can get that for about £400ish in London.

 

[5oysterman2]

Don't glue guttering. The unions have rubber seals. In theory, those rubber seals should be sufficient. assuming no sagging and a proper fall.

If you haven't witnessed water leaking from the join in the picture, I wouldn't be overly concerned. A screw would be beneficial though.

Ladder work at height- up to you. Xmas 2019, my customer's son was putting up christmas light on his home. Ladder slipped. He spent months in hospital and now will spend the rest of life in a wheelchair. Don't get me wrong, I have taken many risks throughout my life. I am now in my 50's. If I fall off a ladder because I was too tight to pay for scaffolding, I hope that I do not survive.

If you know tradesmen in your local area, you may be able get a recommendation for a scaffolder. You only need one lift. If it is a couple of foot below the gutter height you can run a ladder up from the scaffold to the roof and then have access to the back of the chimney breast and the flaunches (the top of the chimney breast where the pots sit). I don't know where you live, but I (for cash) I can get that for about £400ish in London.

Food for thought, cheers opps