Cleaning alternator...

[Deluks]

Due to an oil leak, my Polo's alternator is covered in oil, everywhere outside and in. Used to get belt squeal so I'll clean out the pulley, but what about the rest?
Would it ferk it up if I covered it swarfega and gave it a hose off? Obviously would leave to dry out for a few days before refitting.

 

[Whitworth]

Jizer or Gunk would be better. Work it in with a stiff brush. Hose down and perhaps blow it down with compressed air if available. Then into the airing cupboard until dry.

 

[MrTinker]

As said Jizer(or similar) would be far better, hose it off, blow it out with compressed air if you can but not vital, a good spray with WD40(or similar), wipe it with a rag, and refit it, I wouldn't worry about making sure it's bone dry before refitting.

 

[Deluks]

The stuff I've got is swarfega oil and grease remover, says it's for machine parts and tools so I'll go with that. Got airline, got a few days before I need to refit it, so all good then.

 

[MrTinker]

Perfect.

 

[Burnerman]

If the oil leak is that bad, its probably ready for a head gasket...the oil feed to the camshaft is right in that corner - and they always goddam leak there.
John

 

[Deluks]

If the oil leak is that bad, its probably ready for a head gasket...the oil feed to the camshaft is right in that corner - and they always goddam leak there.
John

In the middle of it (first time for everything!)
I'm not entirely sure where the oil travels through the block, but hopefully all will be revealed today.
I've read that the camshaft seal can leak, are you saying that there's an oilway beneath that part that leaks where the head meet the block?

Is it really necessary to remove the camshaft sprocket? Or can I undo the bearing caps and remove camshaft and timing belt rear cover in one go?

 

[Burnerman]

Within all of the water passages in the cylinder head and block, there is a small oilway that feeds oil up to the camshaft - passing through the cylinder head gasket as it does so. Its usually the gasket sealing ring that fails, allowing oil to leak to the outside.
On the earlier Polo's, the oilway is on the front, left side of the engine, looking down onto it.
If you are renewing the head gasket, then the timing belt has to come off - you may get away with just undoing the cam sprocket if the belt is long enough. The belt must not come off the bottom pulley or the valve timing will be lost.
New head bolts are recommended!
John

 

[Deluks]

Well the belt is loose, and I am replacing it along with the waterpump. Got pump, timing belt plus a new alternator belt, full HG set inc. bolts, camshaft seal.

I've a feeling I will have to set up the timing again from scratch
Setting TDC is in the Haynes, but I'm gonna have to read it again, several times, really s-l-o-w-l-y.

The HG set included valve stem seals, are these worth replacing at this stage? (I've got a mate with a valve spring compressor, although he's admitted that he's never used it so no help there)

Thanks for the advice, priceless info

 

[Burnerman]

No probs mate - setting up the timing isn't difficult.
Basically its taking the bottom pulley off and looking at the cog behind for timing marks...if there isn't any a few dabs of paint will do.
Then its the same for the cam sprocket - line up its mark then fit the new belt so its tight between bottom and top pulleys.
Sometimes the tension is altered by moving the water pump eccentrically - otherwise its via the tensioner itself.
I would replace the stem seals - ok it puts another hour or so onto the job but its worth it. You'll need a deep throat compressor to pop the valves out as they are sunk quite well down in the cylinder head.
Hydraulic tappets? Pop them out, and keep them in order.
Have fun!
John

 

[Whitworth]

A good tip for tensioning the timing belt,
Once tensioned, rotate the engine a couple of times with the crank pulley bolt to 'settle everything in'. Then on the longest belt span you should be able to twist the belt 90 degrees with moderate force using fingers.
TTFN

 

[Deluks]

Not a fun time, smashed and scraped hands from trying to remove the allen head bolts in the crankshaft pulley, got 3 loose, last one has rounded, almost impossible to get to, no joy with mole grips. Gonna try cutting a slot in it tomorrow with a dremel.

The head is still on there at the mo, did notice a small bit of gasket that looked as though it was bulging out on the front corner, probably the source of the leak.

Some of the manifold lugs into the head came out with the bolt (instead of the bolt unscrewing and leaving the threaded lug in place) I assume it would be ok to replace these with some short lengths of studding?

Other issue was that I took the camshaft, sprocket and plastic cambelt cover all off in one go, but I need the sprocket off to change the oil seal, would I be ok to put the sprocket in a vice, (with woodblocks to protect it) and take the sprocket bolt off that way, instead of being still in the head, as the book suggests?

 

[Whitworth]

Have you got a set of torx sockets? I have on many ocasion used them to extract rusted cap screws. Pick one slightly larger than the rounded cap screw and tap it in with a hammer. It will cut into the damaged head and give you another go at slackening it off.
As for the cam sprocket, try putting two bolts in the vice so they line up with the holes in the sprocket. Put a ring spanner on the bolt, slip the whole lot over the bolts projecting from the vice to stop it turning.
TTFN

 

[Burnerman]

Those short pulley allen bolts are indeed made of cheese
I usually spin them out with a windy gun.
No matter - 3 bolts out of 4 will be ok, just use some loctite on them and worry ye not if you can't get the 4th one out....just drill the head off. I'd still try to spin it with a cold chisel though, just turn the crank so that the offender is at the bottom. They aren't actually very tight!
Its common enough for the manifold studs to come out, if the nut has seized on - I usually pop them in a vice and unscrew the nut that way but lengths of studding would definitely work if yours are mangled. They are 8mm, I think.
With care you can hold the cam sprocket in the way you mention, but the teeth that the belt meshes to musn't be damaged in any way. Again the windy tool comes into play! The old belt can be in place on the teeth to protect it, if its been removed by now.
You may find the crank pulley difficult to pull clear...just heave the engine over with a lever and it'll drop out.
John

 

[Deluks]

Whit: I sussed out that a torx would work, T40 was the best fit but the bolt was so rusty it just span round.

Top tip regarding the bolts in the vice, I'll remember that one, but in this case the timing belt rear cover is still swinging off of the end of camshaft between sprocket and seal, I'll try and see if it'll bend out of the way but I doubt it.

Burner: If I have to drill it out, so be it, I can just about get a cordless under the wheel arch. I might even have a socket cap bolt of similar size in the shed to replace it.

More 'fun' tomorrow