cleaning sloppy brick

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There is a style of brick pointing used in the 70s called brick baveuse.
How would you go about removing the excess pointing and tidying it up making it look like normal brickwork?
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nock it off with a 4 inch bolster and hammer

then use a 4 inch grinder with a diamond blade to run down the joints going in about 10-20mm

point up with a half round jointer or pointing trowel for weather struck

if you don't own a grinder,goggles and mask you can use a chasing chisel but will take a while
 
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nock it off with a 4 inch bolster and hammer

then use a 4 inch grinder with a diamond blade to run down the joints going in about 10-20mm

point up with a half round jointer or pointing trowel for weather struck

if you don't own a grinder,goggles and mask you can use a chasing chisel but will take a while

Won't the grinder remove some of the brick?
What type disc would be best?
 
There is a style of brick pointing used in the 70s called brick baveuse.
I'm not a brickie, but I wouldn't call that pointing, of any sort, i.e. it doesn't look as though it's the result of a process carried out on the joints after laying, it looks as if it's just the mortar which squeezed out from the joints during laying.

Actually, it looks as if some smart-arse builder looking to save a bit of time and money has decided to just leave the mortar squeezed out of the joints and invented a fancy name so that he can say "Oh no, we didn't just not bother to do proper pointing, that's a genuine style known as baveuse".
 
It's not uncommon in the USA. Can be a tricky joint to do for a bricklayer used to cutting off as they are laid.
 
nock it off with a 4 inch bolster and hammer

then use a 4 inch grinder with a diamond blade to run down the joints going in about 10-20mm

point up with a half round jointer or pointing trowel for weather struck

if you don't own a grinder,goggles and mask you can use a chasing chisel but will take a while

Won't the grinder remove some of the brick?
What type disc would be best?

Yes it will. I'd recommend hiring one of these if you've got a significant area to work on. The smaller blade fits right into the perps so you can get everything out without damaging the bricks.
 
nock it off with a 4 inch bolster and hammer

then use a 4 inch grinder with a diamond blade to run down the joints going in about 10-20mm

point up with a half round jointer or pointing trowel for weather struck

if you don't own a grinder,goggles and mask you can use a chasing chisel but will take a while

Won't the grinder remove some of the brick?
What type disc would be best?


just to add iam a time served bricklayer and have repointed my fair share of brickwork from full houses to old mills so take this advice how you want

fancy blades and expensive machines for repointing are a waste of time,,,,ive used a few

a simple 4 inch grinder with a cheap diamond blade or even masonry disc does the job as good as any(masonry discs wear out quicker)

depending if your grinding out 5mm or 10mm joints your going to catch the brickwork every so often but if you keep a nice cut the repointing will cover up most mistakes,,,a chasing chisel can be used for places the grinder doesnt reach


repointing guns are terrible to use,,,,,,,ive used heavy duty bin bags with better results,,,,,,,like my mum used to ice cakes with
 

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