clumsy brickie!

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a heavy handed friend of mine has sheared off the brass spigot on the lock shield, whilst isolating the supply to the rad.

is this generally a universal fitting and can it be replaced live. it is an open vented gravity system (non combi), and it's an up stairs rad.
 
You could try and replace it without draining down but you have to be bloody quick! & you need to be reasonably sure that the new valve will seat on the old olive ( it's always a good idea not to throw the old valve to far away when you do it :? )
If you are unsure about it the bung the F&E it's less likely to end in a claim for a new carpet.
As for the new valve just make sure you have the right one for the tail on the rad.
 
i was thinking that the lock shield body could stay put and just unscrew the valve guts, via the threaded nut thats just visible??
 
Personally I would change the whole valve, it would be a lot easier than changing the guts on the old one, you can never be sure the new guts will be compatible with the old one until you try & screw it in, & if you're trying to do it under pressure as well! :?
 
noseall said:
keego said:
Why not bung the F&E, it'll save a drain down.

not a bad idea. i'm sure my little finger is about 15mm. :D

noseall... Your F&E tank will most likely be in the loft so you'll have to either 'chop off' your little finger or have the most amazingly long arms in order to bung the F&E and replace the rad valve!!! :lol:

Don't just use a rag or the likes of (such as your chopped off little finger :lol: ). It could get sucked into the pipework and cause you a BIG headache! Get yourself a set of Feed & Expansion Tank Bungs. You should be able to get them in B&Q for about 10 or 12 quid. You'll no doubt use them again in the future to move a rad or replace a valve etc so its money well spent.

Oh!... and don't be tempted to replace both valves at the same time. Only do one valve at a time. If you cut into the pipework at both sides you'll lose the vacuum created by your F&E Bungs resulting in an unexpected draindown!!!!!!... So one valve at a time :D
 
Bunging has the advantage of (usually) keeping all inhibitor in the system, but the easiest way of all the options is to drain down.

Unless of course you have a blocked drain off cock, but now would be the time to find that out in case you have a leak at the bottom of a ground floor radiator...
 
If you don't have the bungs (which are about £12) and you only have the one job like this, buy a 22mm speedfit cap and two 15mm speedfit caps and a 15mm speedfit socket.

Cap the open vent, hold finger in feed pipe so that you can cut it, and cap each side. (later you remake this joint with a speedfit socket.

Now open drain off with hose attached and wate a while until flow stops. Now close it.

Now do your job it will remain bone dry, but use a towel if you lack faith.
 
Actually when I was changing a pump recently and the ball valve was leaking very badly as a result I hastily hiked up to the loft with my finger, and then shouted down to the customer about carrots. Unfortunately they had non, so there I was muching a potatoe one handed to try and make it replace my finger, but in the end I settled for two push fit caps and cut the pipe.

The other day when I was making another one of those heath robbinson solution adder things with pipe and elbows that we always seem to lose between jobs, making it leak free by creating a wedge of ptfe on the 15mm pipe, it occured to me that an emergency bung could likewise be created, wedging ptfe on a pencil.

I have four of those rubber bungs somewhere but on the day your pump valves leak big time in a 4 story house you can be sure you can't find a single one.

On 22mm pipe the winesaver lever thingy does the job.
 

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