Compression fitting for sink

[NickB_99]

Hi,
In the process of doing a sink replacement in my downstairs cloakroom.

I took the sink off the wall today and as I want to replaster the wall, fitted isolation valves as a temporary measure. Easier to plaster round.
Unfortunately I don't think I've got the cold supply one quite right and it was weeping a bit. I could tighten more, but looking closely, I don't think I've got it on completely straight.

Untitled

• NickB_99
• 25 Jan 2015
• 1

Untitled

• NickB_99
• 25 Jan 2015
• 1

When I do swap for the flexible hoses to the mixer tap, was expecting to remove the isolation valve and then with nut and olive still in place, then swap for the hose+built in isolation valve.
If the olive isn't straight though, I'm wondering if I'd be better re-doing rather than problems later when the vanity unit is in place and sink on top.

Is it possible to cut the olive and redo? Or is it easier to chop the end of the pipe completely removing the olive?
There's maybe a little spare pipe to cope with the latter.

 

[nortonj]

You can buy olive pullers and re do the joint. But can't really tell whether straight or not try a wrap of ptfe on the olive only and re tighten, then check if still weeping. Ptfe normally sorts it

 

[Burnerman]

It could be my eyes, but the isolator looks pretty square....presumably you pushed the copper right home into the fitting?
Undo it again, apply sealant and / or ptfe tape around the olive and tighten up.
You can't guarantee that the olive spacing will be correct for the new flexy pipe though....life is rarely that simple! Could you leave the valve in situ, and continue in copper?
John

 

[NickB_99]

It could be my eyes, but the isolator looks pretty square....presumably you pushed the copper right home into the fitting?
Undo it again, apply sealant and / or ptfe tape around the olive and tighten up.
You can't guarantee that the olive spacing will be correct for the new flexy pipe though....life is rarely that simple! Could you leave the valve in situ, and continue in copper?
John

Did undo and add PTFE, improved it but still seeped a bit. Didn't want to risk overtightening. It was right in when I started, but wielding 2 adjustable spanners in opposite directions, I can't guarantee it didn't slip.

Thanks nortonj - will go for looking one in case I need. Didn't know they existed.

Point taken on the spacing for the flexi pipe. I'll have another go in the week to seal it, and see how the spacing will be on the flexi pipe whilst it's apart.

 

[Burnerman]

If you take the isolator off again, just check that the olive is back up the pipe by a centimetre or so, and hasn't pulled forward as you were tightening.
Give us a pic if you aren't sure.
John

 

[nortonj]

Olive pullers are available but are quite expensive, especially if your not going to get much use. I paid around 30 pound for mine from screwfix.

 

[Madrab]

Are they brass or copper olives? Sometimes the brass olives need a bit more tightening than the copper ones. If it's brass, give it an extra 1/4 turn, the fitting usually 'squeaks', then you know you have an even face.

If it's copper, kinda looks that way, check the end faces of the olive and the shaping face on the fitting and is clean and smooth for an even grip

Alternatively, as long as the olive hasn't 'throated' the pipe I use a pair of vice grips, with a deft touch, just tight enough to grip the olive, without ovaling it or the pipe and can usually twist off.