Concrete washing machine base

[diy_dave1978]

Hi,
I have a washing machine that bounces around. I've tried many ways to remove the bounce from the floor, but failed. I've given up on damping, supporting the floor, cross members for the joists, sistering the joists.

I want to build a concrete platform for it to sit on.

The room is an single skin brick extension. With a concrete base, wooden joists are supported by a single course of bricks on one end and span the full width of the room to sit on top of another single course of bricks. Chipboard is screwed to the joists as floorboard.

If I were to make some kind of base in the corner for the washer to sit on (see diagram), can I just pour concrete in a form and make it level with the top of where the chipboard is now?

1.
What mix would I have to use? The depth of the pad will be about 225mm.

2.
I plan on leaving a small - say 50mm gap between the base and the two walls so not to interfere with the damp course. Is that sensible?

3.
I presume I can pour straight on to the concrete floor?

4.
Should I pour the concrete so that it is top-of-floorboard level, or leave enough to add chipboard as floorboard?

Any help or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Dave.

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

Does it do it on every wash?

 

[Nozzle]

Have you tried to level the washing machine?

Nozzle

 

[Mattatooi]

If its not on level ground and is not level itself it may move, but I mean this is quite a drastic action imo.

 

[garyo]

Does it still have the transport screws fitted?

 

[magicmushroom666]

Most modern washing machines I've encountered make some attempt to even out the load to reduce vibrations, and hardly move on spin. Mabye there's something wrong?

 

[REEMS]

I,ve had the same problem for a while so i made a utility room with a concrete floor and now its fine you cant hear it through the door either.

I think its a good idea diy_dave1978 coz it used to do my head in.

 

[John D v2.0]

I feel like you won't save much money over buying a better quality washing machine.
But as said above check all the usual leveling etc and make sure the weight on the drum and also springs/dampers inside the washing machine are present and correct.

 

[garyo]

and also springs/dampers inside the washing machine are present and correct.

+1... when it's empty, put your hand inside and check that you can push the drum around freely and that it bounces around. They come off the lorry locked in to place with plastic luggs, so an inexperienced fitter may not have removed them.

 

[diy_dave1978]

Hi,
Thanks for the responses, all very much appreciated.

It does it on all washes, with varying intensity depending on the load and the current spin speed.
It is level, I've checked and checked. There's room for a spirit level on top.
Transport bolts definitely removed.
I actually replaced my last machine thinking it was faulty. It turned out, the reasonably expensive new one does the same. I know someone with the same model on a concrete floor that is almost silent.
Just been in an pushed the drum around, feels smooth.

Maybe I could use plywood, instead of the current chipboard?

I appreciate its drastic, but I've ran out of things to try other than using plywood. I'd rather not have to go to the extent of doing it, but I'll have to do something.

Dave.

 

[John D v2.0]

When we say level, it has to have the same weight on each foot so it can't move. But it sounds like you've tried everything else.
Regarding the concrete base, just put a damp proof course in there somewhere and allow air flow around it. Don't let it touch any timbers under the floor if possible. You can save on concrete by building it up with bricks most of the way.

Having said that we had an old broken up hearth covered in mortar in our kitchen, covering and touching loads of timber, no dpc, next to a leaky chimney, and everything was bone dry. So anything can happen.

 

[John D v2.0]

It looks from your original post that you didn't try making a new sleeper wall under the machine, might be simpler than a whole pad, and much stiffer than trying to strengthen the joists.

 

[diy_dave1978]

Hi,
I did support under the joist with wood, not brick though. I made it as tight a fit as I could. Forgot to mention that.

What ratio of sand/cement/ballast should I use? I'm no builder.. I've built bases for sheds, but that's my limit so far.

Dave.

 

[John D v2.0]

I usual just Google for concrete mixes tbh or read the back of the pack. Off the top of my head I'd probably bed the bricks on 4 to 1 mortar with sharp sand, then damp proof course, then another row or two of bricks, then fill up the rest with the same, then cover it for a few days to keep it damp. If you're mixing by hand with a shovel the bricks will save a lot of effort.

 

[FRAN1870]

Hi,
I did support under the joist with wood, not brick though. I made it as tight a fit as I could. Forgot to mention that.

What ratio of sand/cement/ballast should I use? I'm no builder.. I've built bases for sheds, but that's my limit so far.

Dave.

Hi Dave,

Did this work for you? I want to do pretty much the same but I have a deeper void to fill (about 4ft). It sounds like a huge drum when it spins.
It's not bouncing so it's level... it's just the vibration and it does mine (and my neighbours head in)