Conflicting advice from tradesman

[little1alien]

Hi

Im currently renovating a 1950's semi detached house. The house came with some rather think tiles in the kitchen that needed to be chipped off, along with the rather think and nasty cement it was stuck on with.

Anyway its left me with the the wall rather mixed between down to the brick, a scar'd think render and some perfect scored render in patches.

Advice so far

Chippy says render it. better for hanging the cabinets in the kicten

Plasterer 1 - recomends dot and Dab - but has still quote me for render too.

Plasterer 2 - says would require me to chip off all existing render to the brick as there would not be sufficiently good surface for the render to attach to.

advice please.. ill try and add a photo later today.

 

[stevethespreader]

i would definatley render it and forget about the dot and dab, but the question is how much good render is still on the walls to warrent the removal of the rest of it? if theres not much render left then yes take it off and start from scratch, but if there is still a fair bit left on there, its pointless taking it off, once youve uploaded your pics we will get a better idea, but yes definatley render

 

[Richard C]

Also having problems with some of terminology; what are “think tiles”, “think & nasty cement” (some tile adhesive is cement based!) “a scar'd think render” & “perfect scored render in patches”.

The advice you’re getting is not really conflicting;
Mr chippy is correct in that render will be better to hang cabinets onto but I wouldn’t necessarily expect him to know too much about how to go about it or the possible drawbacks of doing it.
Plasterer 1 is covering both options at either end of the cost scale, either of which will be OK as long as he uses MR plasterboard & knows what he’s doing with regards to plastering it; don’t plaster if your going to tile it & MR board must be primed before plastering. The cabinets can still be adequately fixed through the board using fixings of suitable length.
Plasterer 2 is taking the traditional approach to strip it all back & start again but without seeing it, difficult to say weather I’d agree with him or not; it would certainly give you a “good as new” job but will cost more.
Some photos may help.

One important thing to be aware of is that if you use a conventional sand/cement render base, it must be fully dry before you can hang tiles onto it; up to 4 weeks depending on thickness. What about finishing plaster or are you fully tiling?

 

[plstering]

hardwall over all the crap then 2coat skim it sorted

 

[little1alien]

Hi

Thanks for the responses

sorry typing to quickly earlier.

think = thick


Basically the old tiles were attached with what ive been told is a Floor tile cement adheisive - its grey very dense, and tended to splinter and sheer off during removal.

Unfortunatly in patches its pulled the render underneath off the wall.

In some parts down to the brick
and other parts has left the surface looking as it would be after re rendering.

but the majority by a long way is a kind of halfway, where its ripped off some of the render to varyious depths. - looks a bit like the ALPS.


So to remove all the exisiting render will be long and laboroius to do.

Im heading up the house from work now so photos to folllow soon.

cheers again

 

[roughcaster]

Hi

Thanks for the responses

sorry typing to quickly earlier.

think = thick

That's what i was thicking when i read it.

 

[little1alien]

hehe

heres some photos,

they are a bit dark was 5:30pm by the time i got there.

umm yea thoughts please...

View media item 27518
View media item 27517
View media item 27515
View media item 27516
View media item 27513
View media item 27511

 

[plstering]

foooook that m8 spray it on hardwall then muilti or even p75 dornt look back

 

[Richard C]

think = thick

Sorry should have been obvious really

Basically the old tiles were attached with what ive been told is a Floor tile cement adheisive - its grey very dense, and tended to splinter and sheer off during removal.

Cement powder adhesive is primarily used to tile floors but is also used on walls depending on the type of tiles & is essential for larger/heavier tiles of around 300 x 200mm which tub ready mix adhesive will struggle with. So the fact it’s been used is not necessarily wrong.

It’s difficult to see from the photos exactly what sort of construction the walls are; it looks like some form random brick, not like anything I’ve seen before. Are we talking about one wall or more than one? Are there any external walls &, if so, is there a cavity or are they solid brick?

You need a flat base to tile onto but whatever construction the walls are may dictate what method is used. As stated earlier, re-rendering the lot will give you a flat tile base but don’t plaster the bits you’re going to tile, it will reduce maximum tile weight but this may not be critical if you’re laying tiles less than around 300 x 200mm. Gypsum plaster must also be primed if using cement based adhesive or it will react with the Gypsum plaster; use of cement adhesive will depend on the type of tiles & tile weight. Do not use any of the Gypsum base plasters as a tile base either; it’s not suitable for tiling onto so if you do use say, Hardwall, it must be finish plastered before you tile but this will reduce max tile weight to 20 kg/sqm including adhesive. Also remember that using any sort of plaster or render base/finish coats to a depth of 12-15mm will give you a drying time of around 4 weeks before you can tile, maybe longer if the property is unocupied with no background heating; if you try & rush it you will have problems. You could use a proprietary quickset render but the amount you would need would cost a small fortune.

If you want to “press on” then boarding out may be the best option but you will have to remove all the remaining render lumps stuck to the wall to provide a reasonably flat surface to dot & dab the boards onto. If you have external solid brick walls, however, this method is not a good idea as it can lead to problems with cold spots, condensation damp on the wall.

 

[little1alien]

you can see where the tiles were spotted onto the motar with the cement adhesive.

There is cavity in the exterior walls.

hes an example of one for sale with the same construction. from what i can gather / seen they built this design all over the country



http://www.homesonview.co.uk/Scripts/FullDetails.aspx?CID=DAWSKILL&AID=DAWSKILL&PID=DKP01262

 

[joe-90]

It’s difficult to see from the photos exactly what sort of construction the walls are; it looks like some form random brick, not like anything I’ve seen before.

What do you expect from a little alien? His house is on the planet Zogg.

 

[JohnD]

a good rule of thumb: if it comes off easily, knock it off.

If it's firmly attached, leave it there.

Knocking it off can give a nicer job.

Remember to have your rewiring and lots of additional outlets done before plastering.

 

[Richard C]

What do you expect from a little alien? His house is on the planet Zogg.

 

[little1alien]

It’s difficult to see from the photos exactly what sort of construction the walls are; it looks like some form random brick, not like anything I’ve seen before.

What do you expect from a little alien? His house is on the planet Zogg.

Says you with the name joe-90 hahaha

I edited the above post to add a link to an example of house type..

all the remaining render is firmly attached.

walls are Red brick not smartly finised as covered in Render.

 

[Richard C]

Doesn't tell me much about the type of walls they are or if internal or external! Are they cavity?