Boiler is in the loft so that would be a no-go for me as it means chasing walls and lifting up carpets!
Connecting a NEST Thermostat to Potterton Condensing Boiler
- Thread starter dgungadoo
- Start date
Boiler is in the loft so that would be a no-go for me as it means chasing walls and lifting up carpets!
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That would be even worse. Plugging it into a normal socket runs the risk of it being switched off....
In all seriousness, couldn't they design a UK one? Like every manufacturer sells their gear in the UK with a UK plug and not a US one. And most use 110-240v ranges in their gear rather than sticking to 110v and proving fugly transformers for the UK market.
My Honeywell CMT927 is battery powered and has been installed since October 2013 without needing new batteries yet...
where is your current thermostat? isn't it an option to just swap it out with the new one?
if not, can you be creative? use the white back panel and have it up against a door frame, then run the thin USB wire down the edge of the door frame?
just an idea...
if not, can you be creative? use the white back panel and have it up against a door frame, then run the thin USB wire down the edge of the door frame?
just an idea...
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The US uses 120v (+or - 5%) not 110v.
i'm a bit confused.
it works fine with (my) uk system.
one component wires in to my 230V system
the nest thermostat runs from 12V (or 5V)
it works fine with (my) uk system.
one component wires in to my 230V system
the nest thermostat runs from 12V (or 5V)
The issue is how you get the ELV wiring to the stat position.
In some areas of north America ( USA and Canada ) the electrical supply at the property boundary is nominally 120v with a tolerance and in other areas it can be nominally 110v with a tolerance.
In practise due to the way power is distributed over there the voltages are often far from the nominal. It is common to see 11kV along the street on poles and tin can transformers on the poles producing 1xx volts to individual properties.
ok-- an idea --
couldn't you but a 12V rechargeable (or non-rechargeable, or 5V) battery in a wall box behind the thermostat? ok you may have to cut a hole in the wall, and you may have to use the white panel behind the Nest to cover that over, but there would be no chasing (until you next decorate)
couldn't you but a 12V rechargeable (or non-rechargeable, or 5V) battery in a wall box behind the thermostat? ok you may have to cut a hole in the wall, and you may have to use the white panel behind the Nest to cover that over, but there would be no chasing (until you next decorate)
I expect you could, but I guess the power drain must be too great to feasibly run this controller off batteries, or I'm sure the manufacturers would build this into their unit.
From Wikipedia:
In the United States[6] and Canada,[7] national standards specify that the nominal voltage at the source should be 120 V and allow a range of 114 to 126 V (RMS) (−5% to +5%). Historically 110, 115 and 117 volts have been used at different times and places in North America. Mains power is sometimes spoken of as 110; however, 120 is the nominal voltage.
Not that you understand what that means of course 
Not that you understand what that means of course
Of course I do. Don't you?
You didn't understand what nominal voltage meant just a couple of days ago.
Have you finally learnt this really basic principle?
Have you finally learnt this really basic principle?
I've always understood it. But the so called nominal voltage as stated in the UK is a made up figure and not nominal at all. As has been stated many times the UK voltage has not changed. Surely you can understand this.
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