Connecting a NEST Thermostat to Potterton Condensing Boiler

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We've been through this so many times and you still can't see that the so called UK nominal is a made up figure which no way relates to the supplied voltage. I feel sorry for you.

EHD OF.
 
... the so called nominal voltage as stated in the UK is a made up figure and not nominal at all.
That is essentially what "nominal" means (not necessarily an indicator of the actual figure).

You seem to think that "nominal" means 'average', 'common', 'usual' or something like that - but it doesn't.

Kind Regards, John
 
... the so called nominal voltage as stated in the UK is a made up figure and not nominal at all.
That is essentially what "nominal" means (not necessarily an indicator of the actual figure).

You seem to think that "nominal" means 'average', 'common', 'usual' or something like that - but it doesn't.

Kind Regards, John

From Wikipedia:

"In measurement, a nominal value is often a value existing in name only"

Which says it all really. The so called nominal value does not exist. So why do so many calculate using a value that does not exist? How much more intelligent and safer it would be to use the average value that actually exists.
 
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From Wikipedia:
"In measurement, a nominal value is often a value existing in name only"
I'm sure someone has told you that before.
Do you believe it now Wikipedia confirms it?

The so called nominal value does not exist. So why do so many calculate using a value that does not exist?
Because that is its purpose.

How much more intelligent and safer it would be to use the average value that actually exists.
No, because all the comparisons and parameters have be calculated with the same value.
 
From Wikipedia: "In measurement, a nominal value is often a value existing in name only" ... Which says it all really.
Exactly - as I said, that's what "nominal" means. I can understand your being unhappy with this concept of an (essentially 'arbitrary') nominal voltage. Given the wide range of permitted supply voltages, it might be better (and certainly totally honest, and non-contentious) to simply quote, and talk about, that permitted range - i.e. 216.2V - 253V in the UK.

What figure would you then use for your calculations - maybe 234.6V (the average of 216.2V and 253V), perhaps?

Kind Regards, John
 
It would be simpler to round that figure to the nearest ten for ease of calculations.

Oh wait...
 
JohnW2";p="3362071 said:
What figure would you then use for your calculations - maybe 234.6V (the average of 216.2V and 253V), perhaps?

Kind Regards, John

240v. Not the average of the permitted range, but the figure that has been the stated voltage for years and the suppliers have said they have no intension of changing.
 
240v. Not the average of the permitted range, but the figure that has been the stated voltage for years and the suppliers have said they have no intension of changing.
I'm not sure about this 'stating'. I think you would be very hard pressed to find any supplier today prepared to 'state' that they were "supplying 240V", or were going to "continue to supply 240V".

I've never knowingly lived in a house whose supply was usually 240V. In my present house, it is generally above 245V. In my previous one (~30 years ago), it was generally below 235V.

Kind Regards, John
 
I can understand your being unhappy with this concept of an (essentially 'arbitrary') nominal voltage.
I can't.

I really, really, really can't.

I know that he is upset/confused/unaccepting/etc with the concept, but understanding why?

No - for it makes absolutely no sense whatsoever.


Actually, maybe that is it - maybe I do understand why he is unhappy - his dismay is based on senseless, breathtaking ignorance and stupidity.
 
where is your current thermostat? isn't it an option to just swap it out with the new one?

It's a fully wireless one (runs on batteries), so I have it on the stand so it's 'mobile'. It's not in a fixed position.

if not, can you be creative? use the white back panel and have it up against a door frame, then run the thin USB wire down the edge of the door frame?
just an idea...

None of that fits in to the aesthetics of my house, which, seriously, is more important than heating, to me.

For me to even consider doing that, I'd be looking at pulling the door frame off and dadoing the back so the wire sits inside.

But I wouldn't even consider it because having anything (light switches, thermostats etc.) butted up to door frames is the biggest no no for me. At my last house, the previous owners had taller skirting... instead of moving all the sockets up they cut the skirting around them. It just looks terrible.

Let's end the aesthetics debate as it's going OT.
 
But don't (some) transformers use a range of 110-240?
A transformer ( the magnetic type with coils ) will take any voltage at the input up to a maximum set by the quality of the insulation. The output voltage will be set by the turns ratio and vary with the input voltage.

An electronic "transformer" more accurately described as a power supply will have a range of input voltage over which it is designed to work and provide the constant output voltage ( or current if an LED driver )
 

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