Connector Boxes - Recommendations please

[Tornado123]

I am currently installing some new uplighters in the bedroom. The uplighters go flush to the wall. I have 2 sets of twin cable coming from the wall that I need to go into 1, then into the light.

I can just use terminal blocks which are small enough to put inside the wall, but I was thinking this might not be the safest way? Or is it OK to do this?

I was hoping to find a connection box small enough to get into the wall so that the fitting is flush. Something like a chocbox however these seem to be too big, same with the wago boxes.

I have looked on the usual websites, screwfix, city electrical, wickes, B&Q etc but all of the boxes on their websites are too big.

Any ideas? Hoping for a box around 40mm long x 20mm wide. The chocboxes are at least double this.

 

[JohnW2]

Any ideas? Hoping for a box around 40mm long x 20mm wide. The chocboxes are at least double this.

A bit longer than you want, but have you considered an architrave box (with a blank plate)?

Kind Regards, John

 

[Tornado123]

Any ideas? Hoping for a box around 40mm long x 20mm wide. The chocboxes are at least double this.

A bit longer than you want, but have you considered an architrave box (with a blank plate)?

Just had a quick look, still seem a bit long, more than 80mm in length. I would have thought that this kind of box would be pretty standard, what do other people use in my situation, where they are fitting a flush fitting with little room behind for cable boxes?

 

[EFLImpudence]

The uplighters go flush to the wall. I have 2 sets of twin cable coming from the wall that I need to go into 1, then into the light.

Are they not long enough to fit directly to the light?

If not, is there not room for the connectors in the light fitting?

 

[Tornado123]

[/quote]
Are they not long enough to fit directly to the light?

If not, is there not room for the connectors in the light fitting?[/QUOTE]

Theres is no room in the light, the back of it goes straight along the wall, see pic attached.

It is a really fiddly light fitting, it's driving me crazy and as per the reviews online, people are also having problems with it!

I think I will just have to go with terminal blocks.

 

[EFLImpudence]

If it is a solid wall, I would consider just terminal blocks in a hole sufficient.

 

[deadshort]

If it is a solid wall, I would consider just terminal blocks in a hole sufficient.

Ah, nice to know that you live in the real world me too !

DS

 

[sparkwright]

If it is a solid wall, I would consider just terminal blocks in a hole sufficient.

Ah, nice to know that you live in the real world me too !

DS

Very good, absolutely true. A small notch in the plaster, connector blocks and insulation tape.

Despite what you may hear on the forum, that's how most would solve this problem.

Rightly or wrongly.

An architrave box would be a good way to do it though - trouble is, it will almost certainly be in the wrong place when the next generation wall light is to be fitted.

 

[OwainDIYer]

I would have thought that this kind of box would be pretty standard, what do other people use in my situation, where they are fitting a flush fitting with little room behind for cable boxes?

it is standard, it's called a 'BESA box', and is available in surface metal and plastic and flush/dry-lining versions. Light fittings that don't provide adequate space for cable termination (suitably enclosed and protected) should be taken back to the shop and rejected as not of satisfactory quality.

 

[Adam_151]

Perhaps in an ideal world the regs would require a BESA box, or other appropiate box behind fittings.

I've got some light up shelves in the kitchen... glass top and bottom, about 2" thick and with a T5 tube* in. No space at the back for terminations, a pain to clip onto mounting bracket if wall is not perfectly true, supplied with a pre-wired 2 core flex.

I first fixed without having them here. Luckily I put architrave boxes sideways on behind each one... I'd be b******d if I hadn't... They are class 2 as well but having a metallic construction. If one was to start jamming connector blocks between a chipped off bit of plaster and the back of the metal bracket, then the double insulation is compromised

*Magnet said yes when I asked if they were LED, I was slightly miffed when I unpacked to find T5.... luckily they weren't halogen... or they'd have gone back!