Consumer Unit for Outdoor Cooking Area

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I'm building an outdoor cooking area that will need lighting. My thoughts are that if I'm taking power out for lighting I may as well put a socket at the same time. The plan is to feed it from the detached garage that has a typical garage CU with 2x MCBs (1x 6A & 1x 32A) but no RCB. The main feed from the house to the garage is protected by a RCB.

As I will cross two paths (I'll lift sections of monoblock), along a boundary wall and a couple of flowerbeds; I'm 99% certain I'll use 2.5mm 3 core SWA. At the garage end I'll come through the wall and I'll fit a Wiska type box and then continue the run to the CU with standard T&E. It has been about 30 years since I last worked with SWA as a telephone engineer but I can still remember what to do.

I have a couple of questions:-

  1. Can I feed the external CU directly from the existing garage CU?
  2. I see many CUs stating they are IP65 but they don't look as though they are particularly waterproof. Are there any recommended brands?

I'm comfortable with running the SWA and fitting the boxes but will engage a Spark to do the final connections.
 
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Engage an electrician now.

If you want any paperwork, then he will, at least, have to advise you and supervise and inspect your work.


It's RCD - Residual Current Device.
 
I favour a top-hinge (fairly) weatherproof meter box, screwed to posts or a wall, with your IP rated CU, switches and sockets inside it.

They are widely available, not very expensive and you can fit a replacement camlock with a different shape of key to dissuade small children and inquisitive visitors.

you can paint them if you want.

other cabinets are available but tend to be more expensive.

You can flop the lid down when in use. Side-hinge doors are more likely to bang in the wind.
 
Engage an electrician now.

If you want any paperwork, then he will, at least, have to advise you and supervise and inspect your work.


It's RCD - Residual Current Device.
Sure it's not an ELCB - Earth leakage circuit breaker?

I am sure you can do what ever you like, as to complying with regulations it is unlikely any work by a non professional will comply, that's not saying it is dangerous just the test equipment and skill required most DIY people will not have. So assume you want to get paperwork which is why you will get a spark to make final connections, the problem is most would not make those final connections without knowing what they are connecting, so select a spark and agree with him what he will permit you to do.

Or DIY the lot, there is no half way, nothing wrong to DIY it in England, although not Wales, but if you want paper work then get the spark first.
 
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Can I feed the external CU directly from the existing garage CU?
You could, but it's a terrible design, as you will have house CU - garage CU - outside CU, and a single RCD in the house for everything.
If an earth fault occurs, everything is disconnected. For L-N faults it's anyone's guess as to which device(s) will disconnect.

Two circuits from the existing garage CU would be better, as would removing the RCD in the house and relocating it to the garage (or having 2x RCBOs instead).

IP65 consumer units are not suitable for direct installation outdoors, as that rating is only maintained while the cover is properly closed.
Cover gets left open slightly one day and it ends up full of water and is destroyed.

As above - you will need to get an electrician involved from the start. Doing half the work and then expecting someone to do the rest will be a big pile of problems, as what you have installed may not be what that person wants.
 
Thanks for all the input. I've come to the conclusion that I need to rethink the design. :) As soon as the travel restrictions were lifted at the weekend my usual spark disappeared to his place in Spain last week and won't be back for at least 3 weeks.:mrgreen:

The RCD in the main CU only covers the garage CU and the sockets in the house.

Would it be a better idea to run 5 core CWA from the garage CU to an IP65/66 enclosure and then feed a single socket and the lighting that way?
 

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