Cooker Circuit but dont have a oven yet

[iandandav]

I have got to the stage in my house rewire where I am putting in an oven circuit. I dont know which oven to get yet and dont have the funds to get one. I have designed the circuit around a 7kw oven. So will have 30amp mcb, 6mm cable (about 20m long and taking into acount the route etc cable will be good for 34amps if it goes through insulation). I thought about a cooker switch but they seem to be 45amps. Is the cooker switch simply a dp switch or a dp switch with a 45amp fuse, if the latter then a cooker switch would be no use in this circuit for protection of the oven at the oven end (or wouldnt this matter as the circuit has a 30amp mcb). This confuses me as reading this forum I get the impression a fused connection is needed at the oven side so would need to be less than the current rating of the cable. All the cooker circuits ive seen using cooker switches go from them to the cooker without going through a fuse.
What i would like is a 30 amp dp switch to a wall outlet to the oven, but this would not have a fuse on the cooker side. would I therefore also have to have a 30amp fcu between it and the oven too?

If I then went for a smaller watt oven would I have to replace my 30amp dp switch or just the fcu?

In a nut shell Im clear about selecting the right cable for the circuit and oven and the correct mcb for the cu. But am confused about the best way to end the circuit and include a switch at the oven end when the size of the oven could be lower than I designed the circuit for.

 

[flameport]

A cooker switch is just a switch. It's maximum rating is often 45A, but is can be used for circuits rated at less than that.

As for connections, the usual method is to fit a single gang box in the wall (47mm depth) behind where the oven or cooker will go. To this can be fixed one of:
1. Cooker connection plate for a freestanding cooker or built in double oven
2. Single unswitched socket for those single ovens which are supplied with a 13A plug attached
3. Unswitched 13A FCU for single ovens which don't have a plug attached.

Alternatively, a dual box can be fitted in the wall, so you can have:
1. a cooker outlet for an electric hob, and a 13A FCU for a single oven
2. Two cooker outlets where a hob and double oven are fitted
3. 13A FCU for a single oven, and a 3A FCU for the ignition on a gas hob.

Either way, a 32A circuit with 6mm cable will be suitable for more than 99% of applications.

 

[iandandav]

A cooker switch is just a switch. It's maximum rating is often 45A, but is can be used for circuits rated at less than that.

As for connections, the usual method is to fit a single gang box in the wall (47mm depth) behind where the oven or cooker will go. To this can be fixed one of:
1. Cooker connection plate for a freestanding cooker or built in double oven
2. Single unswitched socket for those single ovens which are supplied with a 13A plug attached
3. Unswitched 13A FCU for single ovens which don't have a plug attached.

Alternatively, a dual box can be fitted in the wall, so you can have:
1. a cooker outlet for an electric hob, and a 13A FCU for a single oven
2. Two cooker outlets where a hob and double oven are fitted
3. 13A FCU for a single oven, and a 3A FCU for the ignition on a gas hob.

Either way, a 32A circuit with 6mm cable will be suitable for more than 99% of applications.

Thanks thats helped. I'm assumuing all these options are in addition to a dp switch up at the worktop height? Would the connection to the hob ignition require a separate switch as well as a fcu or could I use a switched fused spur with a 3a fuse to take the place of both?