Cooker problem

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Last year I had a new kitchen installed and now I’m having trouble with the cooker. Las week I was grilling some meat when the cooker went out. I changed the fuse and got it working again. Yesterday it happened again but I left it for a few minutes and it came back on of it’s own accord .
Any ideas what's happening please?
 
If it came on of its own accord, it might be a loose connection which is overheating and needs to be found and corrected befeore it burns away more of the cable or connector.

You might be able to hear or smell a sparking connection. Could be internal to the cooker; at the point where the cable goes into the wall connector; or at the switch; or at the consumer unit. If you are not confident and experienced at this sort of repair you may be better of calling someone in.

A few questions that may help:

Is this a cooker with electric rings/hob, and an electric grill, and an electric oven, all in one?

Is it connected with a plug, or into a biggish white plate on the wall?

Does it have a big "cooker" switch or a small switch the size of a single socket? If a small switch, does it have a fuse in it?

In your consumer unit/fusebox, what colour is the fuseholder, and what numbers are on it? Is that where you fixed the fuse? Does it have actual fusewire or a cartridge?
 
This is a fitted cooker that’s an electric fan assisted cooker and has gas rings. It’s connected to a plug that’s attached to a twin extension lead. The fuse was changed on the cooker plug.
When I turn the oven grill on I do hear a sparking connection.
This is all I can answer to your questions.
Could this be a overheating cut out?
 
The grill is electric? And when you turn it on you hear a sparking connection? If it sounds like it is sparking inside the cooker then it sounds like you have a cooker fault, and need a repairman from their service organisation. Try the oven and see if you get the same problem. If not, you may be able to check that the grill element is firmly seated - they plug in, usually at the back, as they are a replaceable part, and can come loose.



(My earlier questions were mostly thinking about power loading being greater than the supply circuit. If it has gas rings, then (subject to the power load that you will find on a rating plate inside the oven door frame, or round the back) it is usually OK to use a plug and socket. But as you are using an extension lead satisfy yourself that tere is nothing wrong with the plugs, sockets or wires being used.)
 
Err.. I think our wires are crossed. :(
The whole oven goes out. Even the digital display. The grill is part of the oven. The sparking occurs to light the gas. Only the gas rings are working ok.
 
Let's try again.

dustnbones said:
When I turn the oven grill on I do hear a sparking connection.

When you turn the grill on, you say you hear sparking?

Is it a gas grill or an electric grill?
 
lol serious confuzzlement here!

When the grill goes off, do you HAVE to change the fuse to get it working again? Or will it work again after a few minutes without changing the fuse?


On a safety note, is it electronic gas control? If not, beware of the electric going off and the gas still flowing not lit. On our gas oven, you have to turn the electronic controlls all to off before the oven will work after a power failure.
 
I'm informed that this is an over heating cut out. When it overheats it cuts out to cool down :roll: Pity it always cuts out towards the end of grilling the sausages :evil:
 
Are you saying that this is an electric cooker connected via a 3 pin plug, plugged into an extension lead?

Have I missed something here?

If I have read this right its no wonder you are having problems!!!

The extension lead will probably have a thermal overload protection which will reset after cooling. That is if the fuse doesnt blow again in the plug.

Does your cooker have a dedicated fuse in your consumer unit/fuse box?
 
Yes, it's a three pin plug into an extension lead. This is a gas cooker. The only electrics are the spark ignition and the digital display clock.
 

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