Copying a door using a router?

[jacoscar]

I am replacing an internal door with a different style one and also changing from LH to RH

The frame is slightly out of square and the existing door was adapted by someone else and fits the frame ok

Can I use the old door as a template over the new door and use a router ‘copy’ bit?

 

[foxhole]

I am replacing an internal door with a different style one and also changing from LH to RH

The frame is slightly out of square and the existing door was adapted by someone else and fits the frame ok

Can I use the old door as a template over the new door and use a router ‘copy’ bit?

Depends on the new door and how much you need to remove.

 

[jacoscar]

Probably just 2-3mm

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The frame is slightly out of square and the existing door was adapted by someone else and fits the frame ok

The term is the door is "shot in" to the opening and there is a general sequence of doing this

Can I use the old door as a template over the new door and use a router ‘copy’ bit?

Frankly, it is more than likely that you'll be on a hiding to nothing if you try this. For starters, assuming that the door edges are square to the faces and that the original door isn't twisted, it would require a 1/2in router and something like a 60mm top bearing trim bit which will follow every minor imperfection in the old door, including the latch recess and the hinge recesses - these cutters are designed to be used with accurately made templates and on deep cuts, like the thickness of a door, will need to be used with extreme caution as it is very easy to overload the cutter and get a dif in or a kick back - so in all probability it will end up looking like a dog's dinner. Trust me, I'm a carpenter, and if someone had come up with a way of doing this which was quick and easy it would have been published decades ago (spoiler alert: nobody has) - after all hand-held routers have only been around for about 110 years...

You are going to have to bite the bullet and learn how to shoot the door in correctly to fit the opening (and not to match the existing door - after all it's the door casing you are trying to match). A few tools make the job a lot easier, though, like a circular saw (to adjust the length, if needed), a home made straight line guide (if using a circular saw), maybe a sliding bevel, a sharp block plane or smoothing plane (another skill to learn - power planers just don't cut it for door hanging), a home made door block (I've made two of those this week for different jobs), chisels for the hinge recesses, etc. It isn't rocket science, but it does take some basic hand tool and measuring skills (which might explain some of the gawdawful workmanship I've seen masquerading as the work of "professional joiners" in recent weeks!).


Above and Below:A traditional door block used to hold a door in the vertical position whilst the edge is worked on (e.g. lipping, cutting hinge recesses, cutting lock mortises etc). This one was made from an offcut of 4 x 2in CLS


Sorry if this sounds a bit sour, but door swinging, proper accurate door swinging, just can't be done with short cuts and really isn't that difficult with fairly basic hand tools. Trying to do it with a router is using a sledge hammer to crack a nut

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Don't knock the router option- I've used mine to reduce height on clear pine doors and trim the width on another one- all straight cuts, spent a lot of time getting the linings square . My favourite router guide is now laminate flooring quick clamped to the job with paper between laminate and door for extra friction- sometimes use top bearing cutters, sometimes run the router base against the guide. Surprisingly had no problems with splintering on the underside of the cut (where cutter is really cutting in wrong direction)

 

[Deleted member 174758]

I knock it because I am a carpenter and joiner, so I know first hand how to do the job quickly and efficiently and do the job right. Copy an existng door and you will also copy the mistakes in that door as well as potentially introducing more (like the afore mentioned recesses) - but you'll still have to recess for the hinges, chop a new lock or latch in, etc. I also notice that you don't mention how you deal with doors with leading edges...

 

[chirpychippy]

The first question I would ask you is - do you have a Half Inch Router and a Straight cutter with a bearing guide?

If the answer is No you could save yourself a small fortune by getting a good carpenter in to do it.

A good Carpenter will have the following:

A Power Plane
A skill saw
A mortice gauge "bit old school"
A set of Augers
A Drill "Powerful one for Augers"
Razor Sharp Chisels
A Utility Knife
Drill Bits
Maybe a 1/4 inch router for hinges and face plates "lazy method, useful on lots of doors".
Years and Years of Experience.
By all have a go yourself but be patient it really isn't that easy - YouTube has some good videos though.

 

[big-all]

also worth mentioning, the leading edge will stop you using a router for 1/3 the door surface ++so what seemed an easy quick "cheat " turns into a "thats why its not done that way " reason 'yes you can do it that way but not iff you want the best fit quickly and accurately

++wont stop you routering assuming you follow the high edge but need the whole edge reworked with a plane

 

[JohnD]

I am not good at this sort of thing, but if the "frame" is out of square surely it would be better to take it out and refit, or use a new lining, cutting and wedging so it is true and square.

Then no need to cut the door to a strange shape

 

[oldbutnotdead]

Wasn't talking about copying a door specifically, just about sometimes the router being a better option than the alternative. My circular saw is a bit rough so the router comes out for cuts less than 5mm or so. One lucky find I made ages ago at a local auctioneers (yes they still exist, bargains to be had & real auctions are fun) was a huge set of router cutters (carefully hoarded in someone's shed or van over many years)- there are a couple of leading edge cutters in there so if I hit that problem I can deal with it. Or could just use a straight bearing cutter and shim the back edge of the guide to give me the appropriate angle .
Hinges and latches- usually use the baby 3/8" router for them, much easier to wave around. Big hole for the lock- carefully with augurs or spade bits

 

[Deleted member 174758]

But a router isn't a better option. Doors that have been used tend to have all manner of imperfections which your technique will copy. And what about warped doors? Or bolection mouldings? There is also the issue that the idea is to get the wood to fit in the hole with a nice.even gap around the outside, regardless if how awful the casing or frame is. Template routing requires a good quality flat template with flat, vertical edges - doors often don't oblige. That means you are talking theory - have you ever actually done this with a real full size door?

As to leadiing edges, they are rarely used these days because modern fire hinges with a 2 to 4mm gap means they aren't required much. They also have the problem of leaving the lock faceplate projecting on on side which isn't really acceptable in many cases. In any case they are really easy to do with a jack plane or even a block plane, which if you'd ever hung a tight door you would know

Is this a case of "if you only have a hammer, then everything else is a nail". Routers are fantastic tools - just not for this purpose

 

[chirpychippy]

I am not good at this sort of thing, but if the "frame" is out of square surely it would be better to take it out and refit, or use a new lining, cutting and wedging so it is true and square.

Then no need to cut the door to a strange shape

That is an idealistic solution JohnD.

To remove a lining you need to remove the architrave, removing the architrave could blow the plaster or tear the wall paper, once architrave removed you have to de-nail it, the correct way is to pull the nails through the back so you dont damage the face.
Removing the lining will require cutting it first then using a nail bar to remove, probably causing more damage. Then you need to source a lining that is the width of the brickwork plus plaster, or stud plus plaster or many variations of, unlikely, so you would have to buy oversized and rip it down.
Then you'd have to fit the lining, refit the architrave,make good all the damage, then be back at square one of having to shoot in a straight door to straight lining.

It's easier to scribe a door to a wonky lining..