Making a door taller - best way

[Ginga]

Hi There, I'm after a little advice from those that know please.

I have an old internal door that I would like to hang. The door will act as a cupboard door to our central heating cupboard. The door matches all the others in the house, they're about 100 years old. The door frame which will surround the door is fine for width ( just have to plane off a couple of mm of the door on each side). The problem is the height of the frame - the door is about 3" shorter than the frame.

So I reckon I need to add a 3" tall rail to the bottm of the door. Problem is - whats the best way to do this? - Glue?, Biscuit Joiner? use a router to tongue and groove?. Someone has said they could lend me the biscuit joiner - I've not used one before but could have a practice. Also, I don't have a router ( but could borrow one) and have never used one.

Alternatively, becuase this is a cupboard door in one of the bedrooms, maybe I could attach a 3" rail to the floor, making the gap up?

Any ideas / help appreciated.

Many Thanks in Advance

 

[big-all]

your choices are 1" to the top 2" on the bottom

or reduce the head off the frame insert a new head /top reposition the arcatrave fill in the gap

 

[Ginga]

Thanks Big-All.
Really don't want to add to top of door frame and reposition the architrave, its all undercoated, nicely mitred etc

So adding 1" to to and 2 to bottom sounds favourite. So how to join the new pieces Big - All...Whats the best way sir?

Thanks

 

[Bodgeit and scarper ltd]

one inch doweling and long screws

 

[gregers]

pre drill the pieces of timber then screw and pva glue.

 

[squowse]

pre drill the pieces of timber then screw and pva glue.

this is simplest and perfectly adequate. you haven't said if it's painted though?

 

[Symptoms]

Ginga - lots of ways to do this (based mainly on the tackle in your tool-box) ... but clearly the simpest method is to glue & screw (you could add dowels if necessary but I wouldn't bother). Some here might tut-tut about expansion/contraction of timber, IMO you can ignore these worries. Ensure the added bit of timber is slightly thicker than the door so that when the glue dries all can be sanded level.

CH boiler in this cupboard - what arrangements have been made for vents? Consider a compartment vent at the base of the door ... position this over the join line to disguise it.

 

[Ginga]

Sorry Gents...I wasn't notified of your responses...even though I am watcing the topic.....I'll check out my profile details.

The door will be painted so I should be able conceal the join once its sanded and painted. Mmm..... vents....I haven't got one, the flue goes straight through out through the external wall....Is it an issue not to have a vent on the cupboard?

The consensus seems to be glue and screw. I'll give it a whirl. I think 1" to top and 2" to bottom the best way to go so it all looks "proportional".

I let you know how I get on.

Thankyou for you replies fellas.

 

[Symptoms]

Ginga - does the boiler have a 'balanced flue' - one where the air for combustion is sucked-in and the exhaust blown-out (same pipe ... sort of pipe within a pipe)? Or does the boiler have vents (cut-out) in its casing? If it has cut-outs these allow air for combustion to enter the boiler ... clearly, if you restrict flow of air with a door you'll not get efficient combustion and could produce Carbon Monoxide. So by adding a vent (of the correct size depending on boiler output) in the door you allow air to get into the cupboard for the boiler. The vent is really to allow 'good' air in, not to keep the cupboard smelling fresh.

 

[Ginga]

Symptoms - Thanks for the reply.

My boiler is a balanced flue model.Therefore I don't reckon I'd need a vent for good combustion to occur. The central heating system is an unvented system and has a large double skinned water cylinder in the cupboard, as well as the boiler. To be honest, not a lot of heat is dissipated through the cylinder or the lagged pipework...so the cupoboard doesn't even get too hot that I would need a vent for that either. Thanks for the pointer though. I've bought a carbon monoxide alarm to sit in the cupboard anyway ( can't be too carfeul can you?)

Cheers Symptoms