correct throughbolt for fixing wood to brick

[snowman13]

Hi guys.

I could do with guidance on the correct fixing, as I'm fixing a 2" wood to a rear brick wall. the Brick is going to to take moderate amount of strain over time, and I'm guessing, but the internal brick is not Accrington brick, like the second layer brick on the outside.

I've seen a few fixing I'm interested n using and one of them is a

Fischer FXA Throughbolt 10 x 126mm

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• snowman13
• 13 Nov 2013
• 1

My question is, assuming the brick is approx 4.5inches wide, and since the wood fixing is 2" thick, is this the right fixing to use?

Would this throughbolt crack the brick, with its expansion upon tightening?

TBH I've seen other fixing too, but there are so many to choose from, I'm going for the least complicated option, but I've attached some pictures of the other ones I'm interested in looking into.

would you recommend any of teh ones listed below for wood to brick fixing?

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• snowman13
• 13 Nov 2013
• 1

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• snowman13
• 13 Nov 2013
• 1

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• snowman13
• 13 Nov 2013
• 1

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• snowman13
• 13 Nov 2013
• 1

 

[jeds]

What are you supporting?

 

[snowman13]

What are you supporting?

Hi Jeds.


Ceiling beams onto a 7 x 2 inch wood fixed onto the rear brick wall

originally I was going to screw the base wood section between the two beams either side, but realized it wouldn't take the weight in a worse case scenario.

//www.diynot.com/forums/building/correct-way-to-strengthen-ceiling-floor-joists.379362/#2903567

 

[tony1851]

If you're concerned about cracking the bricks, try resin-fixing.
In that situation, I've used short lengths of threaded bar resin-fixed into the holes, and once set, bolt up.
The resin is a bit expensive, though, and you have to work quickly.

 

[jeds]

The Fischer bolt is fine but they have a relatively small expansion area so if you hit a void it may not always bite. Two ways around that - have a tube of resin handy so if you get a spinner pump a bit of resin in and let it go off before tightening. Otherwise just re-drill. Fischer bolts don't tend to cause too much cracking but the original rawl type bolts can do if you go mad tightening them. (the gold coloured one second down in your pic list) There's really no need to over tighten though - it's the vertical component that does the work. Otherwise use chem fixings.

 

[catlad]

You could also use thunderbolts.

 

[Norcon]

Thunder bolts are always the best choice.

 

[limerockconstruction]

Thunder bolts are always the best choice.

I can't believe that i'm going to agree with Norcon but its true!

 

[pred]

Definatly thunderbolts, don't overtighten them, always use a heavy washer, not always supplied, not stocked in your local B&Q.

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=masoary+thunderbolts

 

[snowman13]

Thanks guys.

I was tempted o look into resin fixing TBH, but the water content in the bricks is higher than normal, so I was kinda concerned about the adhesion between resin and damp brick.

I did some research on thunder bolts, and ended up finding these bad boys.

"Lighting bolts"

2" would sit inside the wood fixture, and the rest 3" would sit inside the brick. Am I thinking right that 130mm (5.1") should suffice? or should I purchase a longer length?

I guess even if the blot was to go all the way thru the brick it would have a good grip either way.

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• snowman13
• 18 Nov 2013
• 1

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• snowman13
• 18 Nov 2013
• 1

 

[snowman13]

Definatly thunderbolts, don't overtighten them, always use a heavy washer, not always supplied, not stocked in your local B&Q.

https://www.google.co.uk/#q=masoary+thunderbolts[/QUOTE]

don't over tighten them? is there a chance that the thread could spin inside the brick? Using body weight would be excessive I agree, but a good snug grip on a washer on the wood piece would suffice I say.