Cutting 1 inch off the end of RSJ

[marlb]

Hi all,

Happy new year!!

I am trying to move an RSJ in our kitchen. When we moved in we had a SE around as the RSJ in the kitchen was lower than you would expect it to be. The SE could not understand why it was as low as it was either! I have now removed all plaster boards around RSJ and i think I know why!!

Both rooms on either side of the kitchen have been extended also and the RSJ's in these rooms are resting in line with the kitchen one (on original outside wall). Here is the problem, I think that when I try to move the RSJ in the kitchen up to the same level as the other RSJ's I will not have enough room.

The RSJ in the kitchen will overlap one of the other RSJ's by about 1 inch. I don't want to start moving other RSJ's so is there any way I can cut this 1 inch off??

 

[noseall]

hacksaw.

tricky.

you don't want to be messing around with a cutting torch particularly if there is a cavity or joist ends present.

 

[marlb]

I still have to remove the plaster from the other end of the beam to see if I need to cut it. I may have enough room at the other end to move it side ways. However if I had to cut it I would take it out. There are 2 beams bolted together and the span is just under 3M so removing them to cut should not be too difficult.

 

[Richard C]

As long as you can get access, I'd use an angle grinder with a steel cutting disc; wear safety goggles & leather gloves.

 

[nelliedee]

Hi

My hubby used an angle grinder with steel cutting blade to cut an inch off of 2 rsj's and it worked pretty well but I will say that you definately need googles, gloves and protective clothing as there were an awful lot of sparks flying.
Nelliedee

 

[marlb]

Many thanks all. Sounds like a job for the farther in law!

Happy new year..

 

[marlb]

I can't spell Father!!

 

[Softus]

Don't be such a girl; it's a doddle with a sharp blade in a hacksaw.

 

[Hitachimad]

Work it off with a grinder, 2 minuite job, a 5" or 9" will do it, which ever you can get hold of.

Cut the top and bottom flanges, while its stood up, then flip it onto its side and cut the remaining web

 

[marlb]

Many thanks all,

I will be doing it myself! I have a diamond disc cutter so no problems in cutting the joist, was just looking to see if it was acceptable. ie. It will not cause building control boys to choke.

 

[marlb]

Removed all the plaster around the area of the RSJ's and found the reason the builders did not put the RSJ's as high as they should have been. There is a concrete lintel above it. The reason the steels were put in is because this part of the house has also been extended to the side so the original gable end is being supported by 2 box lintels which are resting on top of the concrete in question. This is all now being supported by the RSJ's. Also part of the ceiling from the adjacent room is being supported. All a bit complicated to explain in writing. Anyway the upshot is I have to remove the concrete lintel which runs 3/4 of the length of the RSJ's. It is about 10 inches deep and 10 inches high by 2m long. Anyone tell me the best way to get this out??

 

[Richard C]

I had to remove 2 as part of the re-development of an old flat roof extension; mine were extremely heavy & a right *ugger as they had been cast in situe so where stuck fast to the brickwork structure. I managed to break the smaller one up around the steel reinforcing rods with an SDS breaker but the other lintel was the same size as yours & the breaker wouldn’t touch it. I devised a plan to take it out in one piece using some more acrows; it didn’t work & instead of falling gracefully to the ground outside, it twisted on it’s axis & the whole lot came crashing down taking a huge chunk of the brickwork with it. It also bent one of the acrows, flattened a steel step ladder, some pipework & broke several paving slabs; luckily the front end of the extension was being demolished & rebuilt anyway.

If you have a mother of a diamond cutter & can, presumably, can access the underside, you may be able to cut it away in sections but if the box lintels above are supporting the gable, do you know if they are strong enough to support it on their own once you remove the concrete lintel? You may need to support the weight of the gable until you reinstate the RSJ’s underneath. I don’t know if you’re still consulting your structural engineer but it may be best to get some further advice & possibly get it done by a specialist. In my case, the lintel ended up bringing most of the wall down with it but it didn’t matter; my advice is be very careful in case you bring the whole gable end down!

 

[marlb]

Thanks,

I am trying to get the SE around now all has been removed. The gable end will be supported by strong boys and acros while doing work. Have already been able to drill into and chip the concrete lintel and it does not seem to be 'rock' hard. I am hoping that I will be able to hammer most of the concrete out from around the steel reinforcement rods and do it that way. I will consult with the SE to see if it was caste in situ or not.

 

[Mr M]

Don't be such a girl; it's a doddle with a sharp blade in a hacksaw.

Grinder = 10 minutes

Hacksaw = 1 hour 10 minutes (at least), one arm like Garth and drown in a pool of your own sweat

 

[Richard C]

Don't be such a girl; it's a doddle with a sharp blade in a hacksaw.

Grinder = 10 minutes

Hacksaw = 1 hour 10 minutes (at least), one arm like Garth and drown in a pool of your own sweat