Damaged/Dented Oak

[Hysteresis]

I have done a search as I am sure other DIYer's have had the same unfortunate occurence and the Pro's in DIY.com will have some wonderful way of recovering from it, but may be it is only me with the problem.
I have just completed an Oak cabinet for the living room. On completion I oiled it with Danish Oil and put it in the room. Mrs H then manages to drop a rather heavy metal object on to the top surface which resulted in an indentation about a cm square area and about 1 mm deep. The only recovery I can think of is resand the indentation to 'round off the edges and then re-oil. This is not really a satisfactory solution.
I don't have access to a 18" wide planer to remove 1 mm from the surface.
I thought of may be dropping a small quantity of water on the indentation with the view of 'swelling' the wood in the area of the indentation, but I don't think that would be a practical solution.
Has any Carpenter solved a similar problem.

 

[xerxes]

You must have felt a bit gutted, as they say.

If the wood fibres aren't severed, I'm sure you're right to try swelling the dent first with water and gentle heat, such as an iron, (the usual method). The oil finish will get in the way of this; you will need to try to remove it from the affected area. Then sand and refinish.

If that doesn't work, you could drill and plug it, with the grain aligned (though it would be a big plug). You could fill it with stopper, but that would always show.

Or you could learn to live with it. It's going to get more marks on it in time, the noble scars of a long and useful life.

By the way, an 18" planer wouldn't be needed: you could plane with a normal smoother, with the corners of the iron rounded off.

 

[Hysteresis]

Thanks Xerxes.
I am encouraged that my suggestion of water and swelling was not just a stupid idea on my behalf. Your advice with respect to removing the Oil and fibre damage is invaluable.
I think plugging is not an option as I think the result I would get would be worse than the original damage. Again, filling is would be worse than the original damage also.
I will give the 'water swell' a go and if that is unsuccessful I will, I think, learn to live with it and shout at Mrs H a little bit more.
Thanks again for your help and advice.
I am not familier with the smoother with the corners of the iron rounded off. Could you expand on that idea for me. I have access to a 12" smoother with a friend and I could approach him to help out. Am I right in thinking that using that idea I could smooth a 3 ft wide table top? If that is so I will save myself an awful lot of hand smoothing off numerous table projects I get asked to do for people.

 

[xerxes]

A bench smoothing plane is generally shorter than 12", around 8".

If the plane iron is ground and honed square, it will produce lines when used to plane a surface wider than its own two inches. Hence the need to relieve the corners of the iron on an oilstone, by putting a little pressure on the corners alternately as you hone, so that they don't dig into the wood.

To plane a wide surface, you need to move to move the plane at a diagonal to the grain, with the aim of producing a uniformly flat surface.

Hope you get on well repairing the damage.

 

[Hysteresis]

Thanks Xerxes,
I have attempted a repair and the damage is I think acceptable, although as with all of these things, I know it is there, but a casual observer can't really notice it until I point it out. So I don't point it out now.
I have got to say though I am still Gutted with a capital 'F'
Thanks again for the help and advice.

 

[Symptoms]

On a technical note ... there appears to be couple of views generally held regarding the profile of plane cutters and the avoidance of producing lines on the timber surface. One view is to 'clip' the corners off the blade; the other (& the one I prefer) is to have a very, very slight curve across the blade and, with the careful positioning of the back iron, will always prevent the production of lines. You can produce this 'curve' at the sharpening (honing) stage by using a 'figure of eight' action on the oil stone; I was shown this technique on a course at the then London College of Furniture 30 years ago, by a master cabinet maker.

Trying and smoothing planes should have a slight curve (as above), jacks and other 'roughing' planes should have a more pronounced curve.

 

[Hysteresis]

Thanks Symptoms,
The Smoothing plane I have access to belongs to a Cabinet Maker. I will see if he will try the slight curvature on the blade as you suggest.
He may not entertain the suggestion as it is used by him in his profession, but I will try him out.
Thanks for the advice.

 

[anobium]

Have you ever used a scraper? this would remove the indentation easily and they only cost £2.93 from Axminster.

 

[Hysteresis]

Correct me if I am wrong Anobim, but wouldn't a scraper just smooth the edges of the indentation similar to sanding and therefore just make the indentation a little less obvious? Or am I missing something here?

 

[anobium]

Correct me if I am wrong Anobim, but wouldn't a scraper just smooth the edges of the indentation similar to sanding and therefore just make the indentation a little less obvious? Or am I missing something here?

No, if used correctly it takes off very fine shavings without scratching. I used to use one frequently in my cabinet making days in situations such as yours.
Only problem, it didn't half burn your thumbs if you used it for any great length of time,

 

[Hysteresis]

Thanks Anobium.
I will buy one and give it a go. Thanks for the tip.