Damproofing
- Thread starter MagF
- Start date
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They have treated the damp wall from the floor upwards according to their "report". If the wall is not damp you will get nowhere with them. As to why they didn't offer you a complete solution I don't know?
Your best bet now would be to buy a tub of SBR, a bag of cement and some cheap paint brushes. Strip back the floor covering about 500mm and apply 3 separate coats of SBR/cement slurry on the floor and where the floor and wall meet.
You need to focus on this area:
In effect, continuing the barrier down and across the floor. I have used SBR in similar situations with good outcomes but it is messy stuff and you need to work quickly and methodically with good preparation and follow the instructions, but there is nothing "skilled" about it .
I can't see the layout of the property from the photos but personally I would be looking at the entire wall area that is "below ground" and a reasonable area beyond and treating it with slurry - the water is still in the wall and still wants to get out where it can and will track to untreated areas. If you have any suspicions that the floor doesn't have an effective DPM then I would apply one (liquid DPM) - again DIYable.
Finish the walls in sand/cement render with a waterproof additive - another layer of protection, don't let another cowboy stick plasterboard
If you're renovating then now is the time to do it.
Your best bet now would be to buy a tub of SBR, a bag of cement and some cheap paint brushes. Strip back the floor covering about 500mm and apply 3 separate coats of SBR/cement slurry on the floor and where the floor and wall meet.
You need to focus on this area:
In effect, continuing the barrier down and across the floor. I have used SBR in similar situations with good outcomes but it is messy stuff and you need to work quickly and methodically with good preparation and follow the instructions, but there is nothing "skilled" about it .
I can't see the layout of the property from the photos but personally I would be looking at the entire wall area that is "below ground" and a reasonable area beyond and treating it with slurry - the water is still in the wall and still wants to get out where it can and will track to untreated areas. If you have any suspicions that the floor doesn't have an effective DPM then I would apply one (liquid DPM) - again DIYable.
Finish the walls in sand/cement render with a waterproof additive - another layer of protection, don't let another cowboy stick plasterboard
If you're renovating then now is the time to do it.
No need to apologise tell.Just get your eyes and computer tested
Thanks a lot for that, much appreciate detailed info. All planned for this weekend. Info about render is very valuable. I've attached the plan, area where treament was done marked in green, utily was converted with new floor and DPM
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Don't try and hide your eejit response about removing the "felt" - and the pictures- I've got it copied in my reply . Just enjoy the day - it's your day.
All fool's day. Don't get abusive , your posts will be deleted. Just keep taking the meds.
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How's that for stopping the soot on the back wall when you take out the chimney breast, I've used SBR before and it works but seems to start by turning the soot to liquid tar and takes a few coats to stop being "wet"?
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OP,
at the rear of the house you are much deeper than 500mm below ground level - thats why i referred to it as a half cellar so it will be treated as a cellar should be treated.
The name of the room (kitchen or utility etc.) is irrelevant.
at the rear of the house you are much deeper than 500mm below ground level - thats why i referred to it as a half cellar so it will be treated as a cellar should be treated.
The name of the room (kitchen or utility etc.) is irrelevant.
Ref the flue soot issue:
to remove flue soot you use a wire brush, and then a very stiff, dry scrubbing brush - no liquid of any kind is used while scrubbing clean.
If SBR or similar are needed after scrubbing then apply in two coats, first coat to dry - when the second coat is tacky then a render of 3:1 sand & lime is applied.
to remove flue soot you use a wire brush, and then a very stiff, dry scrubbing brush - no liquid of any kind is used while scrubbing clean.
If SBR or similar are needed after scrubbing then apply in two coats, first coat to dry - when the second coat is tacky then a render of 3:1 sand & lime is applied.
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