Danfoss TP5000 Si - RF + RX1 & glowowrm 24cxi wiring

[DP]

1. Leave the low voltage link in place
2. Connect power to RX1/L and RX1/N
3. Link RX1/L to RX1/2
4. Connect RX1/3 to boiler room stat terminal 2.

DH, l would follow your advice if RX1 was to drive a motorised valve, else I would refrain from powering up Rx1/ 2 or 3. Often the 3/4 link in boilers has no voltage, 24 volts or 240 volts. In every case better to use voltage free contacts in programmers to 'link' the 'thermostat' point.

 

[D_Hailsham]

DH, l would follow your advice if RX1 was to drive a motorised valve, else I would refrain from powering up Rx1/ 2 or 3. Often the 3/4 link in boilers has no voltage, 24 volts or 240 volts. In every case better to use voltage free contacts in programmers to 'link' the 'thermostat' point.

The advantage in doing it my way is that you only need a three core lead, not a four core. Apart from that, why is it "better" to use the volt free contacts?

 

[Reeves2k2]

thanks guys

im a bit gutted now as its going to have to wait if the mainboard is gone as looking at the price they are around the £150 marks and havent got the funds available to get one at the mo.

was kinda hoping there was a way around it for the time being so i could just get the heating on

i can get hot water fine and i just noticed that when you turn the radiator dial for heating you can hear the boiler do something it just wont fire up to heat the rads.

 

[DP]

The advantage in doing it my way is that you only need a three core lead, not a four core. Apart from that, why is it "better" to use the volt free contacts?

For a start, still going to need 4 core cable (if cabeling is going to look tidy) i.e. L, N Earth and conductor for control interface PCB connection 2.

In my book it is preferable as one does not have any 'external mains' on the terminals when boiler is switched off during repairs and servicing. Have been to installations where when boiler is switched off at the front panel, alternative voltage on the thermostat conductors still present 'illuminating' parts of PCB.

During fault finding, simpler to disconnect voltage free wires and not have to worry there is voltage present on conductors from the programmer.

By the way, what is easier. To connect to voltage free termination atop the PCB cover or remove the said cover and introduce another cable to the mess of cables under this cover. See diagrams 10.1 and 10.4 of the manual.

 

[D_Hailsham]

For a start, still going to need 4 core cable (if cabling is going to look tidy) i.e. L, N Earth and conductor for control interface PCB connection 2.

I was ignoring the unused earth. If you include it in the count, my method needs four cores and yours needs five.

In my book it is preferable as one does not have any 'external mains' on the terminals when boiler is switched off during repairs and servicing. Have been to installations where when boiler is switched off at the front panel, alternative voltage on the thermostat conductors still present 'illuminating' parts of PCB.

Good point

During fault finding, simpler to disconnect voltage free wires and not have to worry there is voltage present on conductors from the programmer.

Another good point.

By the way, what is easier. To connect to voltage free termination atop the PCB cover or remove the said cover and introduce another cable to the mess of cables under this cover. See diagrams 10.1 and 10.4 of the manual.

But that's only relates to the boiler under discussion.

 

[matt1e]

For a start, still going to need 4 core cable (if cabling is going to look tidy) i.e. L, N Earth and conductor for control interface PCB connection 2.

I was ignoring the unused earth. If you include it in the count, my method needs four cores and yours needs five. agreed

In my book it is preferable as one does not have any 'external mains' on the terminals when boiler is switched off during repairs and servicing. Have been to installations where when boiler is switched off at the front panel, alternative voltage on the thermostat conductors still present 'illuminating' parts of PCB.

Good point agreed

During fault finding, simpler to disconnect voltage free wires and not have to worry there is voltage present on conductors from the programmer.

Another good point. agreed

By the way, what is easier. To connect to voltage free termination atop the PCB cover or remove the said cover and introduce another cable to the mess of cables under this cover. See diagrams 10.1 and 10.4 of the manual.

But that's only relates to the boiler under discussion. maybe thats DP's point

You could also argue that using voltfree means less wear on the stat/programmer contacts.
To be honest OP it's one of those that if I had some 5core in the van I'd do it DP's way (preferable for me) If I only had 4core I'd do it D_hailsham's way
either way will be fine
actually talking of the term "voltfree",I think its an awful expression as it's never actually voltfree,
ELV yes but not volt free
But I suppose I'm digressing here......... I'm bored

 

[Reeves2k2]

thanks guys

i have the idea of how its wired now so that should be good to go

now the next problem the mrs has just gone to jump into the shower and all of a sudden no Hot water iv had a look and now the digital display isnt on and the light is just red

so i whipped the instructions book out and to be honest they are very vague just tell you to check the connection between interface and mainboard

iv checked and everything is connected properly

somebody give me a clue please as this simple install of thermostat is gonna be costing me a fortune

 

[DP]

Reeves, time you called in someone who knows the boiler. Being the end user and big time use of O rings/ retaining clips and plastic components, it will hit your pocket big time should a leak from any joint flood the boiler.

 

[Reeves2k2]

leak from any joint?

the boards if knackered will be getting replaced just wanted to know a possible reason for why the display would just go blank with a red light on

but you are right regards having someone do stuff that know there stuff