Diplomat AMP 8702 Washer Dryer Won't Go Into Full Spin...

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Hi, hoping someone can help...

This has turned into a bit of a saga so I'll recap what I've found so far.

Machine stopped working quite a while ago and, I have to admit, it sat there for ages unused till I figured out how to get the fracking thing out without dismantling my fitted kitchen! Anyhoo, that notwithstanding, once I successfully got it out of it's cage I did all the usual external checks first (no obvious problems) before opening it up. Checked all connections, etc, and in the process discovered that the PCB board (which controls the motor, I think) was burnt in a couple of places. Sent it off to get repaired and when I got it back they reported that the damage appeared to have been caused by an external problem. Possibilities I should check were the pump, motor, doorlock and timer.

Wasn't sure how to check the doorlock (but seemed to be working correctly) or motor (I believe is brushless induction type) but the timer appeared to check out ok with a multimeter. However, discovered the pump was goosed so I replaced it, put it all back together and, presto, ran through a cycle ok. Did several cycles including a boil (with bicarbonate of soda too - man, there was a lot of foam!) to clean it out and then over the next few days used it maybe 6 or 8 times and they all were fine.

But then I noticed the clothes weren't as dry as they should be. Further investigation revealed it was getting to the rinse ok (filling, draining, agitating, etc) but when it should be spinning fully it just ambles along at slow spin (washing) speed. Whatever cycle I use, it won't spin at either of the spin speeds (500 and 1200rpm). All the while, when it supposed to be spinning, it is pumping although I am sure it is empty. Checked the external filter and found it completely choked up with crap (this HAD to have happened AFTER I got it going again because it was definitely clear when I first go it going after replacing the pump. Could this have been sitting in the bottom of the drum maybe?)

So I thought it might be the pressure switch fooling the machine into thinking there was still water in it and therefore not letting it spin. I checked the switch by undoing the bottom end of the hose and blowing into it; I could hear one 'click' (should there be more than one?) and with ameter across the terminals it passed a connectivity test when activated by being blown into. Also removed the other end when bottom end reconnected and blew into it and it seemed clear of any obstruction (no resistance at all when I blew gently).

Did another boil wash in case there was more crap sitting in there but it still wouldn't spin.

Not sure what to check now. Could the pump be bocked with the same crap from the filter? Could the pressure switch be faulty? Is it the board again?

Any ideas?

Regards

Doug
 
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Try taking off the large sump hose on the bottom of the tub & take a a peek in there for a possible blockage (every now & the you find the odd sock!). It sounds like the machine may not draining properly and causing your spin issue. If the machine senses unbalance (which can easily be caused by soaking wet clothes sloshing around because of a drain problem) then it won't spin at full speed.
Failing the above (or indeed a blockage elsewhere) then I might suspect a pump issue.
Post the service number if you don't get it resolved.
 
Zipper

Thanks for the response.

Ok, I'll take the hose off and root about in there. If I find nothing obvious do you think it's worth opening up the (new) pump and seeing if anything's got stuck in it?

Btw when you open one of these pumps up should there be any grease in the cavity that the rotor magnet sits in? Or should it be completely clean? This type of rotor is 'lubricated' with water, isn't it?

Thanks again.

Doug
 
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To give you accurate information regarding components/construction you need to post the machine service number/numbers. Otherwise I can only supply generic information.
I misread the fact that you had in fact already changed the pump, so you can disregard my reference to that particular issue. However you still should check the sump hose for obstructions. I am not entirely sure what you mean about the pump construction but these are normally sealed units & non-serviceable. The pcb repairers you used may have be able identify suspect electrical components by the localization of damage to the pcb. There are not that many electrical components in a washer/dryer but a primary candidate to take out a pcb is the door-switch. However any of the other components shorting out could potentially blow a pcb. This includes the heater/heaters, pump, motor, etc. If you have a brushless motor this changes the situation slightly.
Post the service information on the door label & we'll take it from there.
 
8545 000 15819
33 0602 001158

Cheers Zipper!

Btw the sump hose seems to be 'glued' into the casing for the tub. Should I be disconnecting it at the tub or are you saying to disconnect the other end of the sump hose, where it connects to the plastic casing for the filter? The hose is pretty flexible and I can't feel anything inside it when I pinch it so any obstruction would have to be up in the drum, I guess.

D
 
Unfortunately I can't pull up any documents at all on this machine. Diplomat is a badged make & they source machines from many manufacturers worldwide. Often washer/dryers are sourced from Antonio Merloni (who make Hoptoint, Ariston, Idesit & others) but some are also made in China. I am just not sure in your case.
So its back to generic info I'm afraid. It is unusual for the sump hose to be "glued" into the tub, but I have seen in on some Asko washers (I think that's about the only make I have ever seen it on). You could hook it off at the pump end & give it a good shake to see if anything drops out. There is probably an "eco-ball" high up in the hose that you may be able to feel by gently squeezing the hose. If possible I suppose you could check the flow through the hose by putting a large bowl under the end of hose & then empty a couple of pints of water directly into the drum.
I still suspect the refusal to go to full spin speed has to do with the "unbalance protection". When the machine detects an abnormal load it will make several attempts to redistribute the load before finally aborting the program. This could be because of a drainage/blockage problem, but it could also be caused by trying to wash a single or heavy item of clothing, or an overfilled drum. Another cause could be a defective motor tacho or loose shaft magnet. Check the sump & drain hoses for blockages/restrictions first.
 
Upon further investigation the service numbers you quoted do not refer to a Diplomat badged washer/dryer. Instead they refer to an integrated dishwasher produced by Whirlpool in August 2006 (model ADP 8322). Maybe you crossed posts/service numbers somehow??? I don't know.
 
Zipper

Jeez, you know, you're absolutely right! :oops: What a plonker; I've been trying to fix my dishwasher at the same time (both Diplomat integrated machines) and I've got the numbers mixed up in my head. Sorry about that. I have posted a question about it too so, if you know anything about dishwashers... ;)

I'm at work just know but I'll get the correct number for the Washer Dryer posted later today.

As far as that sump hose goes, I'm saying 'glued' cos it looks like there's some kind of sealant involved. Are these joints usually just a push-fit type of thing? There certainly isn't any kind of external retaining clip or anything that I can see. Presumably this is would be designed so that it can be disconnected without having to open up the drum 1st (which looks like it'd be a fairly major exercise).

D
 
Hey..no problem.
Usually the sump hose is retained (both ends) by spring clips or jubilee clips. On the odd machine it could be fitted using a sealant of some kind on the sump side. Just take it off at the pump end in case you damage the other end of the hose. Let me know the right numbers when you have time & I'll see what I can dig up.
 
Zipper

Thought that might be the case so, I have to say, I was a wee bit reticent to go and break that seal without knowing I could reseal it. Glad I didn't!

Ok, so there are two labels under the door, as follows:

----------------------------------------------------------
1st...

Model: APM8702/1
S/N: 20054312018-014103005-01 02

Made in Italy
----------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------------------------------
2nd...

This appliance uses different parts to the APM 8702, please order parts:

Motor 512011600
Electronic Module 546060200
Wiring 552019200
Cabinet 710062501
Suspension spring for tub 444011700
Drive Belt 416002800

464249090
----------------------------------------------------------

Mmmh. Non-standard parts usually means 'more expensive', doesn't it? Just my luck...

Anyhoo, thanks for helping out Zipper. I'm away for next couple of days so no rush; whenever you get a chance to have a look, that'll be great for me.

Cheers

D
 
Wow...this thing isn't easy to identify, how old is it? I might be sticking my neck out but I have a feeling it is one of an oddball series "Zanussi type" machines produced in Porcia Italy. Judging by the door labels it looks like it might have been knocked together using a bunch of old spare parts they had lying around in the garage!
Do the sides have what looks like a "seam" in the middle? Can you post a photo of the beast? (especially one of the control panel).
 
Wasn't too sure how to post pictures on the forum so hope this works...

WasherDryer.jpg


WasherDryer1.jpg


WasherDryer2.jpg


WasherDryer3.jpg


WasherDryer4.jpg


WasherDryerPCB1.jpg


WasherDryerPCB_label.jpg


WasherDryerSerialNo.jpg


WasherDryerServiceNos.jpg


Thanks for all your help so far!

D
 
Zipper

Thanks.

Do you suspect the electronic module or was that just a general link for parts?

D
 

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