Distressed white timber.

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Donegal
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I've been asked to do a 100sq meter ceiling in white distressed old look in like a T&G timber. I have a very short window of opportunity to do this and trying to work out how long it should take me. There ceiling has spot lights and heat recovery vents.

When doing this, I'm thinking me and a labour taking 2 days to install the timber. Maybe 150mm wide x 18mm pine planks. Would this be to thick seeing it's a Ceiling and no foot traffic will be going on it or would a 6-12mm be a better alternative.

I'll add another day for marking out the locations of the spots, push them into the ceiling then when it's finished, drill the spots out and screw back on.

A day for painting and an extra day for profit or if it runs into the 5th day, then I'm covered. The room is of rectangle shape and no turns or corners apart from the chimney breast on one wall.
 
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Thinner would certainly be better for your back! Do you already have battens/joists to fix to and will you have access to 2nd fix nailers? How high is the ceiling and will you have access to a scaffolding tower? Will your mate be on the ground cutting with a mitre saw and you fixing? I've done 1000ft+ ceilings in restaurants and pubs and TBH without seeing the plot and knowing the dimensions of the timber you intend to fix, etc I wouldn't like to say. Timber installation is potentially doable if all the prep is spot-on and there aren't too many cut-outs/corners, etc to deal with. Not being a sparkie I can't say about the rest
 
With any t+g you should coat the tongues before fixing - they show when it shrinks back
 
I would go with as thin a timber as you can get to reduce weight as it’s purely decorative, you can do cut outs as you go .
 
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I would go with as thin a timber as you can get to reduce weight as it’s purely decorative, you can do cut outs as you go .
On big areas my experience has taught me that it's generally quicker to get one process such as installing the cladding out of the way before starting on the next one such as installing the lighting - this is especially true when working off scaffolding towers where you have limited space to hold a tool kit (let alone two)
 
On big areas my experience has taught me that it's generally quicker to get one process such as installing the cladding out of the way before starting on the next one such as installing the lighting - this is especially true when working off scaffolding towers where you have limited space to hold a tool kit (let alone two)
I tend to work alone so do every job myself , removing spots and replacement shouldn’t need a sparks .
 
I tend to work alone so do every job myself , removing spots and replacement shouldn’t need a sparks .
1000 square feet (100 sq m) is a bit more than a one man job IMHO, at least on a tight time scale. In my environment you aren't permitted to do wiring work unless you are a certified sparky these days. Different strokes.....
 
I've been asked to do a 100sq meter ceiling in white distressed old look in like a T&G timber. I have a very short window of opportunity to do this and trying to work out how long it should take me. There ceiling has spot lights and heat recovery vents.

When doing this, I'm thinking me and a labour taking 2 days to install the timber. Maybe 150mm wide x 18mm pine planks. Would this be to thick seeing it's a Ceiling and no foot traffic will be going on it or would a 6-12mm be a better alternative.

I'll add another day for marking out the locations of the spots, push them into the ceiling then when it's finished, drill the spots out and screw back on.

A day for painting and an extra day for profit or if it runs into the 5th day, then I'm covered. The room is of rectangle shape and no turns or corners apart from the chimney breast on one wall.
Depending how easy it is to mark the floor, marking the spots can be done very quickly with a 360°laser that has 2 vertical lines.
When I overboard I mark the centre of each spot then get the cross of a laser on it and mark the floor . After ceiling is covered get cross hairs on the floor mark and mark spot centre for cutting out.
 
You will not be able to push the spots into the ceiling and then pull them through.
The cut out for the spots is smaller than the fascia which covers and small gaps around the light body. They will have to be taken down and re-fitted from below.

If I am honest, from reading your post, I don't think you are up to this job. Certainly not in the time frame you are setting yourself.
 

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