DIY friendly architrave and skirting

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I have previously attempted the above and also had a stab at the coped corners for skirting boards.
I need to do this in a new room and after advice on which style of architrave and associated moulding looks good and is reasonably easy to cut and fix.

I look forward to your suggestions.
 
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It would help if you could give the age of the house and some idea about the style, too. What works in a Victorian villa most likely won't work well in a 1970s bungalow and vice versa
 
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Are some styles easier to cut with the coping saw?
Also, more generally, is there a preferred style
as I was also after recommendations on what tends to look good?

Thanks
 
1950s houses tended to have simpler skirtings and architraves than eatlier (say 1920s) houses, so appropriate skirtings would probably be thumbnail round (1/4 to 1/2in or 6 to 13mm radius) skirtings, skirtings with a long shallow chamfer (possibly with a radiused top edge), modern (squared as opposed to radiused return beliw the "bump") torus, etc. Skirting height was lower after WWIi due to shortage of materials, but i think that 4 to 6in (100 to 150mm) skirtings look better than lower ones. Architraves would normally be a tad narrower or wider than the slirtings to provide s bit of differentiation

As to ease of installation, all i can say is avoid any mouldings with a very thin top (e.g a Grecian ogee) as they need a combination of scribe and mitre on inside corners. Other than that there are plenty of instructions on the net on how to scribe inside corners (some of it actually correct!). Main thing is to start with s mitre cut, highlight the edge with a pencil line, use a decent coping saw and blades (Eclipse, Irwin, etc), make sure you add a back clearance to the cut and get your scribe done and working before attempting to cut the mitre at the other end (if that is what's required). Also try to avoid having a scribe at both ends of a piece - they are tricky
 
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Did you have something like this in mind?
upload_2020-6-4_9-57-54.png
 
Hi Guys,

I have now removed the existing skirting boards. The results were unexpected...
There is a large void behind these skirting boards. There is approximately 12cm from the floor up to where the skimmed part of the wall begins.
I am planning to skim the walls but unsure on how I should be fixing the skirting boards in this situation.

I would be grateful for your advice
 

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Your original skirtings were fixed to wooden wedges which were hammered into the vertical gaps you can see in the brickwork.

You can either replace the wedges (ideally using treated timber (but remember that after banging them in they'll need to be sawn off plumb and in line) and fix skirtings to the new wedges, or get the plasterer to finish the plastering to within roughly 1in (25mm) of the floor and fix the new skirting boards in place using a combination of grip adhesive and angled pins into the plaster (the plasterwork must be absolutely dry to use grip adhesive), or even fix some form of built-up treated timber grounds to the brickwork which are drilled, plugged and screwed to the brickwork along the top and bottom edges of the skirting and to which the skirtinv boards are pinned. Two parallel 2 x 1 treated slate laths, one at floor level, the other above it (with a gap) might well do the job
 
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I used A high square edged skirting all fixed with foam adhesive , fills all the voids and is solid after 1/2 hour.
 
The gap visible in the pictures is around 130mm. I know you can purchase 140mm skirting which is approximately twice the price of 120mm but also, I am concerned that my Makita MLS 100 wont cut the 140mm boards.

I am tempted to go for the 120mm skirting but this will require some of the plaster to be tidied up. Can I use a bonding coat followed by a skim coat to build this up and this will then provide me with a fixing point as well as finish off the wall above the skirting?

I'd appreciate any wisdom you can provide on this situation.
 
The MLS will cut 140mm board - you just have to cut it flat with the head set to to appropriate bevel angle for mitres as opposed to cutting vertical with the angle set by swivelling the head and doing a mitre cut. To get the extra10mm deprh of cut over the spec. add one or two 18mm packing boards to the bed of the saw. Simple, really.
 
I was going by this and assumed the maximum cut laying down is 130mm wide?
upload_2020-6-17_21-30-16.png
 
The skirting I have in mind is actually 144mm to be precise. I don’t think it’s available in 140mm. Would the suggested approach cover this do you think?
 

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