DIY gutter, facia and soffit replacement

[HiZ]

Hi all,

Looking for some advise as Im shortly due to replace the galvanised metal facia/soffit boards and asbestos guttering. Its 1959 semi and I am getting my dad to help. Im also getting some aluminum scaffold for the weekend. Local council tip will accept asbestos gutters too which is a bonus.

Existing facias are 150mm heigh/25mm thick and soffits about 280mm deep.

1. Want to replace the steel totally so do I just get the plastic facia and vented soffit from the likes of screwfix etc.

2. How/where are the boards fastened up, is there a good diagram showing this anywhere. Obvuisly I use the right fastenings with plastic caps etc. The soffits are resting on the top of the outer wall, are they screwed down into the bricks from above?

3. Is it as simple as pulling the old down and replacing with new, was reading on a supplier site that the pro's take the first row of tiles off and fit a plastic/rubber membrane. Again, is there a diagram or is this essential?

Any help appreciated.

Cheers

 

[HiZ]

 

[^woody^]

Tiles rest on the fascia, so you push the first row back for access. But in most cases, the felt to the gutter has rotted so you should fit a plastic eaves tray - search this forum for images. So you remove the first row and push the second row back.

Fascia is nailed to the rafter ends. But you don't just fit the plastic fascia unless it is the 20mm thick type. If you are using normal 10mm plastic,then you should fit a piece of 5 or 6 x 1 first, and fix the fascia to this

Soffit is fixed to horizontal timber from the rafter ends running back to the wall - it will either rest on the top of the bricks, or butt up to the wall

 

[HiZ]

Thanks,

I intend to fit the thicker boards so will avaoid fitting additional wood.

I will have to get up a ladder and see what is going on as the roof doesn't have felt as such, it has waxed paper under the tiles - ideally I would say it would need the fielt replacing but I have no leaks or issues so don't intent to do that. Would I fit an eaves tray at this point??

How essential or easy is it to slide back the first row if I did decide to fit the tray?

Cheers for your help.

 

[masona]

2. How/where are the boards fastened up, is there a good diagram showing this anywhere. Obvuisly I use the right fastenings with plastic caps etc. The soffits are resting on the top of the outer wall, are they screwed down into the bricks from above?

If you pop into Wickes, they have instruction in their profile section or you can download it > scroll half way down the page

http://www.wickes.co.uk/content/ebiz/wickes/resources/images/gil/104.pdf

I don't know if you're near Mr Plastic , I buy most of my stuff from them, very reasonable price and quality

 

[HiZ]

Cheers for the replies. Just been up my ladders for a closer inspection and found that the ends of the rafters are cut square, not at a vertical angle on the ends.

The galvanised section of soffit/fascia is a combination section of steel sheeting. Looks like I will make some little wedges or nail square pieces of wood the side of the joists so I can fasten the soffit and fascia to. Is this normal?

 

[^woody^]

Yes, either fix horizontal timber to the sides of the rafter running back to the top of the wall, or fit a peice of timber inline with the rafter but with a plumb cut edge.

Don't cut wedges and fix these to the end grain of the rafters

 

[masona]

As mentioned from woody, run the new rafter slightly longer then run a string line from end to end rafter, spirit level for plumb then cut otherwise you could end up ripple effect on the fascia board

 

[HiZ]

Cheers for the replies, looks like I need to get some timber and my saw out!

With regards to the eaves tray I noticed next door has some, I think I will hold off fitting it as it will add no value - or will it? I have no felt as such - its waxy paper with lots of holes in!

Cheers