DIY or get a sparky in?

[DIYStuart]

So I'm in the process of a major kitchen refit. Everything is changing so it will be a complete rewire.

As I'm not made of money I'm looking to see what's the most efficient way to do things.

Option 1 is that I do all the electrics myself and get BC to sign off ... this would be the most satisfying but require I do my homework to make sure I'm not putting sockets in places they aren't allowed to be, running the correct size of cable for the runs etc. I feel confident to do this (and I assume BC will want to know what I intend to do before I start so will be able to point out any mistakes)

Option 2 is I get a sparky to do everything.

Option 3 is I do the "first fix" .. i.e. chase all the walls etc and run the cables ... then get a sparky to connect everything up. This seems like a sensible compromise ... it saves me the hassle of getting BC involved and also saves me paying an electrician to drill holes in my wall.


My questions
1) Will most sparkies be happy to go along with option 3?
2) Assuming I'll want a fused spur for the oven, one for separate hob, one for extractor fan + another 3 double sockets what would be a ball park prices I should be looking at for options 2 & 3?

Thanks

 

[1john]

1 - dont know, but certainly dont do anything without asking or agreeing with someone first, it's a phone call I wouldn't like to have from a potential client "I have run in all the cables can you wire them up and sign off my work" - put it this way, I will not sign anything off that isnt mine or I havent fully supervised. I would be willing however to work alongside a home owner but full agreements would have to be made first and I would need to inspect the job thoroughly throughout the various stages.

2 - contact your council 9maybe check their website) and see how much notification fees are, some places they are several hundred pounds - how competent are you, what do you know about circuit design, circuit testing, installation methods, cable calculations etc etc? Is your current installation upto spec, is the main bonding in place, have you proven it's continuity? What do you plan on doing with the left over live parts of the existing circuit when you re-wire the kitchen and have you got spare ways in your consumer unit for the new circuit(s)?

 

[JohnD]

Option 3 will do provided you find a qualified electrician, who can demonstrate that he is a member of a competent persons scheme, who is willing to do it with you and will issue the certificates. Do this before you start work. Do not expect him to sign off any electrical work that he did not do himself. So you can do the chasing and fitting boxes, but not the cabling

It may help to do a large-scale plan of what you intend, and to chalk on the walls and floor where you intend to chase and talk it through with him. See if he wants you to run oval plastic conduit in the chases. If so (you can fix it with 16mm cable clips and no-more-nails) it can make it very quick and easy to run the cable later

A few suggestions that may help:

Run a string of outlets 200mm above worktop height, with a chase between them. Put as many double socket boxes as you think you might want along here, with single boxes for switches feeding unswitched socket boxes below, wherever you want, or one day might want, an appliance rated at no more than 13A. Also single boxes for FCUs in this row feeding single boxes above for flex outlets wherever you might want cooker hoods, extractors, wall lights, cabinet lights, wall-hung appliances. It is possible to fit a central control panel to switch all outlets, this can be very modern and smart but not everyone likes it.

Outlets for electric cookers and double ovens are not spurs, they need their own radial circuits and deep boxes, run in 6mm or preferably 10mm T&E.

It is a good idea to have a dedicated radial for the boiler and each freezer or fridge position.

Use 35mm backboxes as they are roomier and easier to wire into than 25mm. I recommend that as well as a couple of screws, you set them in sand and cement (set back enough to plaster over later) remember to fit grommets in the knockouts before fixing. Use a sprit level and check twice. You can get an aid to neat plastering round electrical boxes, but I have forgotten what it's called.

You will have to take up the floors and drill joists at the mid-point. I like to make screw-down floor panels that you can lift out when working. This is a bit labour-intensive but if you are DIYing it you can hopefully put the time in as preparation. Electricians are not usually good carpenters and may leave your floor looking as if it has had a chainsaw on it.

I like each circuit to be on an RCBO, which might add £30 or so to the cost of each circuit. It gives a superior job. ask you electrician which brand of CU and accessories he prefers (you don't want a cheap one) and if he will buy them from his wholesaler or wants you to get them.

BTW I strongly recommend you use steel hanging rail for your wall cabinets. You will have seen the adjustable cabinet hangers that you fix on a 70mm bit of steel; well you can buy the steel in 2 or 3 metre lengths and fix it to your kitchen wall, it is very strong and easy to fix in advance and you can lift up your cabinets and move them about at whim, they will all be level. If you want you can paint it to blend in with the walls

 

[DIYStuart]

Thanks .... sounds like I need to find myself a sparky and talk him through my plans.

 

[1john]

Thats a good plan, get several quotes, make sure they are all members or the competent persons scheme and check. Remember, the cheapest isn't always the best either, make sure you get on with the chap you choose and you feel he is reliable, also make sure you check references!!

 

[ajrobb]

I strongly recommend you use steel hanging rail for your wall cabinets. You will have seen the adjustable cabinet hangers that you fix on a 70mm bit of steel; well you can buy the steel in 2 or 3 metre lengths and fix it to your kitchen wall, it is very strong and easy to fix in advance and you can lift up your cabinets and move them about at whim, they will all be level. If you want you can paint it to blend in with the walls

I'd wish I'd known about that. Hanging cabinets from Paramount partition with studs at 900mm centres might have been easier.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

If you want you can paint it to blend in with the walls

Why would you have it extending beyond the edges of the wall units?

 

[JohnD]

it goes right along the kitchen wall. At any time there might, or might not, be a cabinet at any particular point. If the fancy takes me, I can lift one up, or down, or move them a bit to the left, or the right, or I might have a gap where I intend to put a plate rack when I get round to it, or a false cabinet to hide the boiler. Or I might hang my Drop Dial back up, or perhaps a bookcase for Nigella and Delia. It also runs across over the cooker hood though it is not easy to see there.

I am a very slow worker.

I have painted mine satin white which does not look bad as the walls are still matt white until they get tiled. The rail comes from the mill in dull grey zinc plate on steel.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

a bookcase for Nigella and Delia.

We were round at some friends once and there was this book and on the spine it read

How To Eat Nigella Lawson.


Yes please, I thought....

 

[JohnD]

I couldn't eat a whole one.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

On a serious note - which make of rail did you get? Did you look into which one(s) were of better quality?

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I couldn't eat a whole one.

Who said anything about a one, he said, as he watched this topic go rapidly downhill.....

 

[JohnD]

they are probably much the same. I got some (unbranded) from Woodfit which were expensive even with a trade discount, and some more from BK which were cheaper (Hafele brand) as were their adjustable metal hangers, which are supposed to be better than the ones with a plastic shell. I have not unpacked the Hafele ones yet, I bought them when I saw the price.

As the metal is profiled, it is fairly rigid, and you screw it to the wall, so it has little opportunity to bend or buckle. I work on a screw or two at each end, and one every 300mm or where I think I am likely to put a hanger, though I suspect 600mm intervals would be plenty. I use the plasplug and nomorenails method and 40mm screws which I am sure are more than adequate.

edit
here we are

http://www.bkservicesonline.co.uk/s...t_info&cPath=1251_1306_1469&products_id=26054

http://www.woodfit.com/product_info.php?products_id=193&Name=Cabinet+Hanging+Rail+-+2.5mt.+-+Steel

 

[securespark]

wall-hung appliances.

Mrs Secure says I have one of these.

 

[wingcoax]

I thnk Mrs Secure needs to put her glasses on