Do we need to powerflush?

[1UselessDIYer]

BG just assumed it was the pump and changed it and when that didn't work they went off to speak to the superviser then came back and said it could be blocked and we needed a powerflush costing £700 and £500 to trace where the blockage was.

We had already tested the room thermostat and the timer before calling BG, both made the pump switch on and off so we ruled them out as a possible cause.

A friend of ours has also said it could just be an air lock, if it is what do you suggest?

 

[Softus]

Following on from my previous post, assuming it is a blockage, I think it will be somewhere between the boiler and the airing cupboard.

Or at, or in, the heat exchanger.

 

[1UselessDIYer]

What's a heat exchanger?

I told you I was a novice.

 

[Softus]

What's a heat exchanger?

http://letmegooglethatforyou.com/?q=heat+exchanger

 

[nickso]

the first thing you need to do is ask them why they quoted £1200!

thats not even close to the maximum price for inside m25 which is circa £800. sounds like some additions have been made for the cut and clear which is actually part of the powerflush and should not be charged any more for.

despite some rather colourful accusations the information you have provided isnt really going to give any clues as to whether or not you have a blockage or another less expensive issue. my advice would be to get them back to confirm it if you are under any doubts. sadly if you want another opinion you will have to pay for it or take the advice given.

 

[Slugbabydotcom]

I have just had a quick run through all the posts so far and I cant see yet that anyone has mentioned about bleeding the air vent near the cylinder or to check that the pump valves have been reopened properly.
£1200 is taking the p1ss. Try a local independent heating engineer and preferably one who is recommended

 

[DP]

Or even post your location here. A regular may come to your rescue.

I can see this developing into 'mister your boiler is done. You need a new boiler'

 

[Agile]

They went off to speak to there supervisor then came back and put our system "at risk" and have told us we need a powerflush and trace as the system could be blocked. They have quoted a price of £1200.00, which we can't afford so decided to DIY it.

We have today drained the system refilled and added Fernox Heavy Duty Restorer but although the boiler fires up it switches off when the boiler temperature rises but there is no heat in the pipes leading to the hot water tank or pump.

Adding chemicals is not quite the same thing as a power flush!

Unfortunately you have had one of BG's less competent people who cannot even work out why there is no flow and changes a perfectly good pump!

I have no idea where your system is blocked but it does seem that it is. Dealing with badly sludged systems which have become completely blocked can be quite time consuming but most independents should be able to do it for you for not much more than £200.

Tony

 

[gas4you]

most independents should be able to do it for you for not much more than £200. Tony

Tony, you might be, but most of us (definately me) are not a bl**dy charity

£200 is not going to get much done for the op in this case i think

 

[Agile]

I only meant to identify where it was blocked and unblock it for not much more than £200.

It was not to include a power flush or full chemical treatment. I try not to be a charity either!

That would get it to the situation that the owner could fiddle with his chemicals or DIY power flushing to clean it out.

I was anticipating a 3-5 hour job! At £160-£220 thats fine for me.

Tony

 

[1UselessDIYer]

I have just had a quick run through all the posts so far and I cant see yet that anyone has mentioned about bleeding the air vent near the cylinder or to check that the pump valves have been reopened properly.
£1200 is taking the p**s. Try a local independent heating engineer and preferably one who is recommended

Now bare with me on this one is the air vent near the cylinder the sticky up pipe with the twisty bit on the top that comes off the pipe that leads straight into the cylinder. If it is I've turned it, let the air out so now it only has a bit of water that comes out. I only know about this after watching one of the BG guys doing it.

Second point is the pump valves the white box with the pointy bit which is supposed to move depending on whether you want hot water, heating or hot water and heating? (I think it's called the 3 port valve or maybe a 2 port valve from reading other forum's) This isn't moving at the moment when we switch the buttons on the timer would that be normal if it was blocked?

How do I reopen these, as I don't know what they are I assuming I haven't reopened them.

I've been trying to find someone local who can have a look at it for me but no-one seems to want to ring back, we live in Yateley so if any of you can recommend someone that would be great.

 

[Softus]

Motorised valve:

Pump valve:

 

[1UselessDIYer]

Thanks for the pics, I've turned the pump valve anti-clockwise assuming it was the same as the rad valves. I now have heat in the 22mm pipe leading towards the motorised valve. My one only has a pipe going in and out (does that then make it a 2 port valve?) It has auto and max instead of a and b like the one in the picture. The spindle still isn't moving even though the timer is on. I'm not sure how this works so any advice is welcome.

 

[Softus]

I've turned the pump valve anti-clockwise assuming it was the same as the rad valves.

That's certainly the correct direction for opening the valve - how many turns did it take?

If you think you opened the valve, then it being shut would certainly have been part of your problem. Now you need to identify the other pump valve and ensure that that is also open.

My one only has a pipe going in and out (does that then make it a 2 port valve?)

I don't know - could you clarify the meaning of that sentence?
Particularly the part that says "My one only has a pipe"?
____________________

Edit: I've just realised what you must have meant - are you referring to the image I posted being of a three-port valve? If so, does yours look like this:

 

[1UselessDIYer]

We opened the one above the pump and the one below it as well, it took quite a few turns.


Edit: I've just realised what you must have meant - are you referring to the image I posted being of a three-port valve? If so, does yours look like this:

[/quote]

Yes but my one seems to be alot older as it has a spindle which moves from left to right rather than a switch.