Dodgy wiring on mitre saw

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Okay so I took a chance and bought a chop saw at a car boot sale.

When i got home i noticed the lead on it had been cut off and a new length added and taped round, obviously I went to put a whole new cable on it. the bit of power cable inside the machine definitely looked original and I simply replaced it like for like so the same wire colours went to the same terminals as before. BUT I've now noticed an 'N' mark where the live red/brown wire is/was. So I'm confused. I'm sure I didn't swap the colours over compared to the original as i was careful and I can also tell thats how it was by how the original wires are shaped on the old cable. Could the 'N' mark on the terminal block have been ignored when assembled?
And whats the worst that could happen if i try it and the wires are the wrong way round?!
Many thanks for reading, thoughts appreciated
 
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Could the 'N' mark on the terminal block have been ignored when assembled?
Yes.


And whats the worst that could happen if i try it and the wires are the wrong way round?!
It will run backwards and do invisible mending on pieces of wood.


Actually, no it won't. It'll be fine, but now that you've got it open you might as well wire it properly.


Unless "N" is the abbreviation for Live in the native language of the country of origin of the machine - might be worth checking.
 
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Okay, thanks guys, it seems like there is nothing lost in swapping the wires over before trying it. And I think I've got an RCD somewhere.

My only other question is, would the small yellow box house a capacitor? as its across positive and neutral. there is nothing very helpful written on it but I'm just a little concerned as it as capacitors are polarised...

Thanks again for your replies, I feel better about trying it now :)
 
My only other question is, would the small yellow box house a capacitor? as its across positive and neutral. there is nothing very helpful written on it but I'm just a little concerned as it as capacitors are polarised...

It will be a spark suppressor and will not be polarised. In any case, we are talking about AC, so there is no positive. It is live and neutral.
 
What exits the other side of the switch and where do those wires terminate?
 
It APPEARS to be a double insulated device so it should not matter.
That is irrelevant. However, it is double pole switched which does matter.

Had it been SP switched then incorrect wiring would have meant having the switch in the neutral. I suspect there are very very few tools these days without DP switching since a) many countries have non-polarised plugs, and b) some countries* (or building sites with 110V supplies) have 2 live wires.

* EG, USA with 220V split phase supplies.
 

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