Door lining in old house

[snadge]

Ive to replace a door in kitchen that was boarded up - with plaster board, stud wall and plaster the width of lining I need is 30x80mm but the packs come in 108mm, I couldnt find any wood too match - can anyone advise here or is it just a case of cutting my own>?


thanks

 

[^woody^]

Buy the lining and cut it down to the required width

Get the one with nail on stops not the one where the stop is moulded into the timber, I can never remember whether these are linings or casings

 

[joinerjohn]

You could just buy some 30mm x 80mm planed timber and make your own lining, then plant some stops on it.
Simples.

 

[noseall]

You could just buy some 30mm x 80mm planed timber and make your own lining, then plant some stops on it.
Simples.

I think that was what Woodstock was inferring.

 

[RonnyRaygun]

Buy the lining and cut it down to the required width

Get the one with nail on stops not the one where the stop is moulded into the timber, I can never remember whether these are linings or casings

Linings have the nail on stops, casings have the stop moulded in...made the mistake of buying the wrong ones once and haven't forgotten

 

[snadge]

yeah it was loose to nail on

we looked all over B&Q for 30x80mm timber but could not find any as thats what I wanted to do... 44x90mm i THINK was the nearest I could get

I dont have a saw or work-bench but I suppose a jigsaw over brick wall will do

the specs are so...

width of door frame without lining is 830mm - the door is 762mm - so with the standard 28mm (x2) packs i would have 12mm gap - seeing as hinge side usually gets sunk in and is 2mm from liner meaning my other side would be 10mm - is this right? as you can tell its the first time ive had to do this

thanks

 

[ajrobb]

I dont have a saw or work-bench but I suppose a jigsaw over brick wall will do

The surface you cut needs to be flat enough for architrave and paint.

 

[snadge]

I dont have a saw or work-bench but I suppose a jigsaw over brick wall will do

The surface you cut needs to be flat enough for architrave and paint.

i just thought , although its covered with the architrave you could still see any uneveness from the side... so really it has to be very straight

 

[RonnyRaygun]

width of door frame without lining is 830mm - the door is 762mm - so with the standard 28mm (x2) packs i would have 12mm gap - seeing as hinge side usually gets sunk in and is 2mm from liner meaning my other side would be 10mm - is this right? as you can tell its the first time ive had to do this

Nothing to stop you screwing a bit of 8mm ply to the stud to bring things in a bit tighter?

 

[snadge]

will B&Q cut the lining down to 80mm for me? i will be getting a circular saw to cut flooring out but dont have a work bench for it so dunno if I could do it

 

[ajrobb]

will B&Q cut the lining down to 80mm for me? i will be getting a circular saw to cut flooring out but dont have a work bench for it so dunno if I could do it

I used a workmate, hand saw and smoothing plane to trim a couple of frames. It was tedious but fine.

 

[RedHerring2]

Use a straight edge clamped to the timber for the 'newly-bought' circular saw to run against and provide a nice straight cut.
Measure the gap from blade to outside edge of sole plate to decide where to clamp the straight edge to the timber.

Don't forget to adjust the blade for the depth of cut.

 

[snadge]

ok thanks everyone...

cheers

 

[RedHerring2]

I dont have a saw or work-bench

A couple of saw horses will probably provide more flexible use in the future than a work-bench. And with an old door will provide a good working surface.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/junior-saw-horse-twin-pk
Wickes do them also but are a little more expensive.
They nearly always are priced as a pair.